Torx Bolt Front Disc Extraction
 

Too late for now, as I attempted to change the front discs and pads at the weekend and could see my T50 from my Draper set bending, so got nowhere with that. It went into the garage this morning for them to do the job, as I need the car later this week. For a very fair price they did it.

I would rather have done it myself but now need a suggestion as to a suitable set or tool, which could manage such a stubborn job, for the future?

Removed an extremely stubborn one recently with my Mac Tools T50 half-inch socket. I have a 3/8 socket set too but didn't want to risk that one.

Regards

About one and a half mins into this video. It works. This was a cross point but works with just about anything.
https://youtu.be/T8hJbPLqgjo

he needs to clean is hands more as he works or wear gloves and change them often, he as contaminated the brake shoe pads :eek: the hammer & turn effect will only work if the torx/cross pint as not been damaged, if it as then you will either have to drill it out or try an extraction tool.

Hi Fred,

I've bought some Draper tools in the past and I've not been too impressed with their quality and durability. It certainly should not "bend" under any circumstances.

My suggestion, however, to deal with this job is simple. Lubricate the Torx screw thread* with Copper Ease and make sure that you don't tighten it any further than the MG Rover specified 33 Nm. If you do this, I guarantee that when you come to remove it again, you will have no trouble, even with a Draper tool! :laughing2:

Simon

* Some members will disagree with lubrication but I have practised this technique for decades and nothing I have tightened in this way has ever come loose or given trouble of any kind.

Impact 'screwdriver'. I have a Draper one with a small selection of interchangable bits, now probably 15 years old but didn't cost a great deal at the time. Before attacking the screws, 'unsettle' the old discs/drums with a sharp tap of a hammer (if these are being replaced it doesn't matter, if they are to be retained use a copper/hide mallet or an aluminium drift/block between the hammer and disc/drum) and a likewise sharp clout (old technical phrase...) on the screws themselves using the appropriate bit inserted into the screw head, hit with said hammer/mallet.
Then, just use the impact screwdriver/bit per instructions usually provided - easy and 95% effective unless a gorilla carried out the last brake service/repair!!
On re-assembly use copperslip on the screw threads (for next time...) and remember that on our disc brakes these screws don't actually carry any significant load, that's all handled by the hub studs and taper wheel nuts.

Thanks Simon, I too use that method, but encountered this difficulty "on the way in".

HI John.
Something like this you mean which I came across recently:eek:
https://i.imgur.com/BLXf0t2l.jpg1

In this situation, the next thing I would try is to get the Dremmel out and cut a slot in the face of the screw so that you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver.

Wow, on mine all appeared intact, it just would not budge.