The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change

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- - My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change - how to (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=124816)

Quote:

Originally Posted by kael (Post 1520754)

Do you start with a hot engine like Haynes describes?

Yes, that's always best as oil flows more freely when at normal operating temperature.

Quote:

When the level plug (allen key) is removed is the engine still running then, likes Haynes says to do?

No, Beinet1's method states that the engine is started at operation number 8 (see thread no. 1).
When Haynes talks about keeping the engine running that is for checking the level, not draining the gearbox.

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But how long does it taken to warm up the autobox oil when the car is not riding = no load on the auto...?

Don't try to warm it up by idling. Take the car for a drive.

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I suppose after the refill of the first 4l, the fresh oil wil be mixed inside the box with the remaining oil and in this way also partly be flushed out through the cooler. So these steps maybe need to be done 2x or 3x to have 'all' the old oil out?

It's one process with clean oil continuously supplied to the filler plug on the top of the transmission.

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I don't understand Ford Perfect's addition, how can fresh oil be drawn into the gearbox? Do you need 2 containers connected then? a full fresh one on the filler plug and a empty one on the oilcooler connection?

Ford Prefect is referring to a different procedure which he says he saw used in America. I think he's saying that the return hose from the ATF cooler was used as a suction line from a container of clean fluid, whilst the flow hose to the cooler discharged the used oil into a bucket. Both methods require two containers.

Kurt, if you're in any doubt about Beinet's method, don't attempt it.

Simon

My 2002 CDT has the latest type fluid cooler (which cools on the water circuit).
The input pipe is marked X and output pipe is marked with W on that cooler.
So you need to release pipe W on the cooler (the one on the left side of the cooler, shown right on the picture here, and that is going to the lower fixing at the Jatco box.)
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...0e47dd96a6.jpg

Thanks Kael spotted this before doing mine
Saved any confusion also auto transmission level plug is 14mm hex on later models.

Quote:

Originally Posted by beinet1 (Post 1456417)

Level plug circled in red. You need a 5mm allen key to undo this

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps6c2ce571.jpg

mine has a 14mm hex on here instead

With the lower cooler pipe disconnected, will it suck in air when the engine is run for 10 seconds ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by pletevl (Post 2070328)

With the lower cooler pipe disconnected, will it suck in air when the engine is run for 10 seconds ?

It may draw some air in the disconnected pipe, but as the system is an oil circulation system, it will bleed it self when everything is connected and filled. Running through all the selector positions for 3 seconds each is basically the internal bleeding process before setting the ATF oil level.

in the image showing the "level plug" ,it appears to be lower than the drain plug........?????

It doesn't matter, the level plug is just a plug in an Oil way that goes up inside the casting to the correct level.

If you think about it ?, if the level plug was just a plug in the casting anywhere near the same level as the drain plug, how would you keep 8 or so litres in ? :D

:getmecoat:

C

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevehotshot (Post 2262080)

in the image showing the "level plug" ,it appears to be lower than the drain plug........?????

Hence the question..........Thanks