Oil pressure warning light
 

Hi Brian thanks for your response. You previously suggested that I run a diagnostic check which I did and which revealed that the LED warning light was not working yet when Rick tested it by substitution it worked. I do not understand why that was.

As I said previously there was power in the white/brown wire and the actual oil pressure switch is new so I believe that the fault lies at the connector which attaches to the oil pressure switch. The connector is sprung but can the actual connector be replaced if so, how do you release the wire and put it in the new connector?

Thanks,
Martin

Martin; if you managed to measure 12v at the WN wire terminal on the connector then the only fault could be that the female terminal needs tightening to make better contact with the male terminal on the pressure switch.
No, the connector won't be available separately and trying to dismantle it won't be easy. They are designed to be secure and tamper proof.

Simon

Look at the diagram of the switch Martin, it is a normally closed pressure switch connected to ground ;)

When the engine is started the signal from the switch goes high, pulling up, this is what extinguishes the lamp.

So Ov on the wire at the IPK engine stopped, 12V when running ;)

Remove the plug from the switch, and earth the wire, does the oil lamp light now illuminate on the IPK?

This will confirm continuity to the IPK of the white/brown wire.

Why was the pressure switch replaced, was this as a response to the oil lamp warning failing to light initially, or for other reasons?

Brian :D

Well folks, all the work now completed and car is running sweetly thank goodness.

New condenser yesterday bit of a pain putting cowl and fan back on but sorted. Regassed today now like a fridge in the car. The air con guy I use is very good not like the usual. He runs Mirageair in North London does nothing but air con including new installations. His prices are reasonable, i.e. recharge £45 including VAT.

The oil pressure warning light problem as expected was a problem with the connector. The Lucar connector eventually came out of the connector which I removed from the oil pressure switch and then just pushed the Lucar connector onto the oil pressure switch and then used a sealant gun to cover the end of the switch with sealant to waterproof it and it is now working fine. In fact Simon you can get the connectors from specialist car electrical suppliers they are only about £2- £3 each but I saw no need at the moment.

The car has now covered about 150 miles and I had to add about 100mls of coolant which I think is normal as there is probably residual air in the system, at least I hope that is the case!

I must say I thought the diagnostics for the instrument cluster would have revealed if any of the LED's of the warning lights had failed but that does not appear to be the case following my experience, be warned!

Hopefully we can now look forward to "Happy motoring...."

Martin

Surely it's not a Lucar connector Martin, like this?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....LebJL._AC_.jpg
You said that these have a sprung wire retainer and I know exactly the type you mean. Please can you provide a link to the supplier you've found? I'd like to keep them on file in case I need one!

Many thanks.

Simon

Simon it is not actually a Lucar connector but it is on the same lines. It is called a JPT connector and see the following link https/www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680/category/7-ref051501


Martin

Sorry Martin, I can't make your link work. It just produces a list of Google search results. Then I noticed that the :// was missing after https but even after correcting that I didn't get the page you intended me to see. :shrug:

Simon

They are Tyco-Amp connectors, and the part number for the brown housing is 282189-6, and the contacts 964274-2.

http://www.aoton.cc/download/202054164953283.jpg

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/s...6fN8g&usqp=CAc

As you can see, it is a simple case of depressing the two tangs securing the contact into the housing, and gently pulling the cable, and the contact comes out of the housing.

The barbed grommet once the contact is out of the housing, can be released from the crimp and slid up the wire for reuse with the new contact.


Brian :D