ROVER 75 CDTi - FITTING THE UNDRETRAY
 

I now have had my "new" (built 16/3/2005) CDTi for 7 weeks (er, vibration coming up steering column still not sorted after several hundred of £s later!) and soon realised that no Engine Undertray was ever fiited. Ahhh - the dreaded "Project Drive" strikes again!
However, there are 2 small thin-gauge plastic type flaps/covers each side - was this some sort of compromise?
Anyway, I bought a "genuine" Rover 75 undertray to fit and the proper fitting kit thinkling this would be a 20 minute doddle......how wrong!
I am now about to make my 3rd attempt to locate it with the underside of the front spoiler and to make new mounting holes in the tray itself to align with those pre-drilled in to the sub frame and elsewhere. It needs 10 in all.
Why is it when parts sold as GENUINE are not always compatible??!! ED http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...cons/icon8.gif

Did you get the Diesel undertray ??
It goes to the top side of the lip in the front bumper also.
and i think it needs 11???? 5 in the front bumper then 2 sets of 2 going back...
I also replaced all the silly 1.4 turn clips with castle nuts and stainless steel socket cap head bots

Not sure if the petrol and diesel undertrays are different but I removed and refitted mine last night and it takes about 2 minutes, and thats on my own lying on my back. You are right about 10 holes: 4 at the front and as Klarzy says teh undertray lips over the front bottom edge of the bumper, 2 right at the back, 2 about 12" from the front and 2 somewhere else (these are missing on mine).

Good luck mate. It will be worth it when you get it on.

Maybe just the 1800 one that is different...?

Id have thought the mounting holes would be in the same place though??

Same basis tub and subframes surely?

The under trays seem the same from the V6 to the Cdt from my experience as I fitted an MG Ztt 2.5 tray to a chum's pre-facelift tourer recently. Everything lined up, but as Pete (Klarzy) stated, the fixings are pants! I have replaced such fixings with a nut and bolt configuration that allows the tray on and off quite easily, and it stays put when it is fitted.The tray being fitted makes a good difference to the car's quietness and well worth the efforts of fitting.
Good luck and hope it works for you.

Undertray
 

I have my undertray off at the moment ready for a weekend oil change. The only turnbuckle screws that come out completely are the front lip four. The ones on rest of the tray are captive.
If you're having to drill or do anything with the tray other than remove and refit then it's either misaligned or the wrong tray for the car.

I can't see even the later cars not being fitted out with a tray or at least the fixing locations. Why would you make such a minor change nearly at the end of a production run.

Always locate the front lip first. The other six then just fall into place. Copperease grease is good and makes for easier removal next time ;)

The undertray was fitted all the way through production and was not subject to the Project Drive deletions.

A previous owner or his garage has either lost or discarded the undertray

Dave T

If you're competent, cut it down just enough to expose the oil drain plug, then it can stay on for oil changes. Mat at DMGRS can supply a decent fixing kit.:}

This is a good tip, but I found a fluid leak yesterday simply because I removed the tray and found a wet patch (and no it wasn't on SWMBO's side).