advice on electrics
 

I sometimes in posts see kbus mentioned. No idea what it is.

I want to fit a tow bar and the neatest solution for the wiring is to cut
the existing wiring harness going to the rear light clusters, fit a plug and socket and reconnect. The socket would need "two rows" with the connections attached to each other. This would allow me to insert a second plug carrying the 13 pin trailer electrics.

could this cause and errors or false "readings/detections" by the ECU ?

macafee2

Yes I believe it will cause issues, the current draw would be too much and it would trip the bulb failure system.

It’s better to fit a bypass, these take a 'signal' from the existing wiring, but draw very little current to avoid the can bus system. They have a separate power feed, I used a piggy back fuse in a spare slot if I remember correctly. Then used scotch locks on the signal wires.

Obviously, there are better ways of doing it, but I liked this as it’s is easily removable, scotch locks especially are not the best design in the world, but it’s all still working!

I've never used the modern 13 pin plug, presumably it’s for a caravan so you need power to the fridge etc?

The best solution is to find a genuine Rover wiring harness, although I believe these are hard to come by.

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/images/com...?1533722400832

https://gloimg.gbtcdn.com/gb/pdm-pro...1640934062.jpg

Fox3, thanks for the reply.
How would I use I use the relay you show? Cut my wiring harness in two and connect it to the two sides of the relay with two wires on the towing side, one for cars lights and one for the caravan?

macafee2

I assume the separate power feed you mention is used to power the rear lights for car and caravan.


another thought, I could remove the plug from tail lights, get a socket to fit and then take wires to the vehicle side of relay. From towing side, 2 sets of wires, one set to caravan and one set with a plug on the end to the tail lights?

would that work?

Seems a better idea then cutting the harness.

macafee2

That sounds like a neat solution, although I'm not sure where you'd get the plug to fit from.

Your options are scotch locks - These just nip through the insulation on the existing, and new wire when you close the clamp.

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/media/ima...50-Pieces-/jpg

Crimps - This would involve cutting the loom, and rejoining with the extra wire in the crimp.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB176PsJ...pg_640x640.jpg

Or soldering a new wire, and heat shrinking the existing loom. I believe this is the best solution, and probably what a auto electrician would do.

http://thumbsnap.com/s/25GbEZiV.jpg

And yes, the separate power feed is used to power the relay and the lights.

The caravan side of things is a little more complected and I think you need a 'split charge relay' This is used to charge the caravan battery and run the fridge in the caravan.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MAYPOLE-UNI...e+relay+towing

Or both in a kit

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-7-pi...e+relay+towing

I'll be honest, I never bothered with this when we used to own a caravan, I just ensured the fridge was turned on and cooled down (from the mains) the night before and everything stayed cool until we got to the site.

Here's a link to the Towsure website, this explains the relay in more detail than I can!

https://www.towsure.com/fit_a_multiplex_bypass_relay

And another for the 13 pin socket :}

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/advice-cen...electrics.html

Macafee, use the bypass relay as in post 2 and don’t use scotch locks.

When I wired up my Wedgewood with 13 pin I sourced some tail light wiring from a scrap car to extend the connections for the nearside wiring over to the off side where I had mounted my bypass relay and split charging relays.
All my connections are soldered then taped up.
You need to run two cables from the front of the car fuse box area, one heavy enough to power your fridge and charging, the other as a switching wire for the relays. I used two relays, one for the fridge the other for charging your caravan battery.
Purchase a 13 pin pre wired socket (PF Jones) with sufficient cable length to reach into the wheel arch are just behind the seats. Your less likely to have any damp issues if mounted here.
There’s plenty of info on the forum regarding the cabling from the front of the car.
Good luck.

Forgot to add, you can use the same supply running from the fuse box to power the bypass relays and the split charging relays, just make sure you use cabling heavy enough to carry the load.

try this
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...t=76793&page=2

Post 13 shows picture of the heavy feed you are looking for.


It is a bit of a struggle feeding a heavy cable through but it will work well.


As has been mentioned avoid scotch connectors. it is best to solder or at least use the correct size crimp and ratchet tool.


Makes sure cable is the correct size for the loads and all will be well. I use the 13 pin and have done so since it was first introduced, mainly for a neat approach at the hitch but more so for the additional earth grounding connections.
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