Lower arm removal
 

Whats the best way to remove the front lower arm?

Crack the outer hub pinch bolt joint, then remove the 18mm rear bush housing bolts, then I use a good quality bearing puller to split the taper joint on the inner ball joint into the subframe - this last joint can be tough to shift

Pete

How i did mine...

Balljoint on the hub: lower the car onto an axle stand placed under the subframe. Use a 6' pry bar, pointy end jabbed into the axle stand, and a small ratchet strap between the arm and the bar to pull the bar into the air. Jump on the bar and the balljoint should pop out.

Rear bush: 18mm bolts, bit of a pig to get to, but OK with a good variety of spanners and socketry. ISTR the deep-offset ring was one that did it.

Balljoint on the subframe: (Assuming you're changing the whole arm) I've never found a splitter that fits.. Lower the car and support it by the balljoint's pin sat on an axle stand. A couple of swift blows to the /side/ of the subframe with a copper mallet was enough to release the taper.

Check this out from Mike24

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=259434

I did it this way and found it was very easy to remove the balljoint.

To get easier access to the 18mm bush bolts, remove the roll bar bushes. It's fiddly but it allows you to lift the roll bar out of the way significantly improving access.

A flexiheaded 18mm ratchet spanner helps too.

Don't cross thread the bolts when you put the bushes back on the subframe. It is really, really easy to to that. You can guess how I know!

I read this a while ago and completely forgot about it. :duh::duh:

:wot:

Pete's on the money here and I have found the perfect good quality adjustable puller which, once set-up (a bit fiddly), will release the taper without damage in about one minute. :D

Sykes Pickavant 0830 0000

Simon

Unscrew the nut flush with the thread end. Hold 1/8 alloy plate against the nut. Whack with lump hammer. Off in less than 1/2 second with no damage.--:D:D:D

Was this a whack swung from your friend's inspection pit Jon? ;)
I obviously tried that, repeatedly, and it didn't work. It also risks damaging the thread on the balljoint pin, the nut or both! It's not easy hammering upwards with the required force to release a taper joint when lying on your side on a garage floor.

The purpose of my post was not to engage in a contest of machismo. It was to provide details of an easily obtainable and low priced specialist tool for those members who wish to follow EastPete's advice, that's all. :getmecoat:

Simon

:grouphug: No contest intended. ;)

As I was going to replace the arm complete I wasn't worried about any collateral damage. ( There's also pleasure in getting your own way by whacking a recalcitrant nut or bolt. )

What was it Sinatra said ?---I did it my way.------Lol.

The original thread was four years ago folks!:shrug: