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-   -   Xenon question (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=312706)

Seanalf 1st May 2021 20:09

Xenon question
 
Chaps, may need to look at adjusting the beam on some xenons that have just been fitted.

Is it outer adjusters (ones nearest the wings) for up and down, up being anti-clockwise? I was told the inners are for horizontal. Varying answer online, who has the definitive one?

Thanks in advance:bowdown::shrug:

Rick-sta 1st May 2021 20:28

Inner ones are for height adjustment. Outer ones are for horizontal adjustment.

Switch the lights on at a wall in the dark and play with the adjusters, you'll see the lights moving.

Seanalf 1st May 2021 20:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick-sta (Post 2879242)
Inner ones are for height adjustment. Outer ones are for horizontal adjustment.

Switch the lights on at a wall in the dark and play with the adjusters, you'll see the lights moving.

Thanks Rick, inners are missing, so this could be fun. The drivers one has the wheel, passenger one is missing it all. I've been given the electrical block trick, so may try that. They are level (garage did it the other day and I think they snapped them, but they seem low.

stevestrat 1st May 2021 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seanalf (Post 2879247)
I've been given the electrical block trick, so may try that.

It works and works well. I had the knackered adjuster problem with my old ZT, did the electric block "mod" and it stayed like that til the day I parted with it.

Number 6 2nd May 2021 18:03

QUOTE "I had the knackered adjuster problem with my old ZT, did the electric block "mod"

Could some one explain please??

Seanalf 3rd May 2021 00:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Number 6 (Post 2879368)
QUOTE "I had the knackered adjuster problem with my old ZT, did the electric block "mod"

Could some one explain please??

The lights have adjusters that rotate a spline that uses pivots to move them up, down, left right. Being plastic, they become brittle and snap off leaving only the spline (as one of mine was).

So if you have just the spling, grind a flat ege using a dremel, get a large inner from an electrical choccie block (after you've cut the plastic off). Pull the spline all the way out to take up the slack. Put the block over the spline and tighten, using loctite on the screw. You now have something to grip to rotate the spline and adjust the lamps.

Seanalf 3rd May 2021 00:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevestrat (Post 2879248)
It works and works well. I had the knackered adjuster problem with my old ZT, did the electric block "mod" and it stayed like that til the day I parted with it.

The lamps were a bit of a mare to be honest. Ended up completely stripping the drivers down as the motor for leveling wasn't working (bent pin in the plug). One adjuster was disconnected and the other was snapped with only the middle one attached. Had to strip down the old light to get the bit out to replace the broken adjustor. Fixed the broken pin, cleaned the inner lens, resealed and refitted.

Second one, had to do the block mod as we couldn't get the adjuster off the old lights to transfer across. Set up and now working. Had to wait until dark to set up the beam.

Now going to invest in some good bulbs as I simply don't trust the ones fitted after the seller stiffed me with these..... rubbish :)

suzublu 3rd May 2021 08:25

Should've fitted the bulbs while the lights were off, a lot easier 😎

Seanalf 3rd May 2021 12:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu (Post 2879440)
Should've fitted the bulbs while the lights were off, a lot easier 😎

There are some bulbs in there, been offered a set of Osrams cheap. If I 'd had them, I would have mate, trust me. But at least I've swapped all the bolts out, so bumper off in 10mins and I can set the lamps again once fitted.

Anyway. who doesn't love a challenge...

Rick-sta 4th May 2021 15:22

Replacement cogs are available here to repair any broken adjusters: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373420943258

Depending on how worn the metal bar is that these attach to sometimes they can be hammered on in place securely, in some other cases where the bar is more worn these have to be glued in place.


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