Rustproofing new rear arms
 

I've just taken delivery of 2 upper rear arms and want to improve the protective coating on them . What do people recommend ?
As supplied from Rimmers they appear to be powder coated so I am just wondering about compatibility of various products on top of the powder coating , without stripping back and starting from scratch .
The old ones were waxoyled , and have rusted anyway , so i'm thinking maybe Hammerite ?

The only way to do it properly is as Brian did them, by stripping, shotblasting and galvanising but there is a lot of work, going down that route. The new Hammerite is pants due to health and safety. I did mine with Bilt Hamner Dynax S50 (It is "self healing"), then UB Cavity wax (insides done with 360 degree lance). This can be "topped up" each year (I do mine prior to MOT in July after a pressure wash, drying/heating period as it needs to be 100% dry). You can still get to all the insides of the arms in situ using the long 360 degree lance supplied (also handy for sills).

Thanks for that . Do you know if it is compatible with the powder coating on new arms ?

I don't know but you could contact their customer support:-
https://www.bilthamber.com/


https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...ents/dynax-s50


https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...ments/dynax-ub

I have a pair I never fitted for a rainy day. As soon as I got them I gave them a quick rub over with sandpaper to get a key, then two coats of red oxide, then Hammerite on top! If they ever need to go on I'll be spraying them with something suitable over that. I'm trying the Krown stuff this weekend so will see how I go on with it.

I did one of mine (from Rimmers) with Bilt Hamber inside with the lance and outside 6 months ago and they look grand. Shame no-one can see them.

POR 15 is the product you need if you want to protect stuff like this, goes rock hard after a few days. I don't know what is in it but once the tin is open make sure you use it all as even with the lid back on the remaining paint will go off in a few days.

They are not powder coated, its basecoat over bare steel, not good at all, as others have said, do it the way Brian did his.

There is an alternative, which is to fit the new arms as they are. On the bright side, this should mean that if the car outlasts the new arms, the new bolts will probably not be rusted and seized when you come to replace the arms again. ;)

Always look on the bright side of life! :cool:

I think it just forms a skin, break through the skin and the pain underneath is still good.
Be warned, if you get paint on the lid to tin joint and it dries, you wont get the lid off.... trust me:D

Not with por15 but ordinary paint, I turn the tin upside down so the skin forms on what will be the bottom, when the tin is the right side up.


POR15 is the stuff I have used on my arms and many other bits but don't use it where the sun can shine onto it, so under the car should be fine.

you will need to strip the existing paint off before using por15

macafee2