Clutch to floor, repair options
 

My 75 unfortunately had the clutch stick down on Friday.

I've detached the master cylinder and pressed the pedal to find it quite firm so I'm thinking it's the slave.

Looking at the forums I should just get the whole clutch replaced. My concern now is the car is on 87k and maybe I should get the dmf done too?

I've seen people converting to a single mass and I don't want to break the bank so does anyone know what the best option is?

The slave cylinder alone at a garage near me is going to be 470.

The engine runs like a dream so I really don't want to let the car go!

Have a look under the bell housing for any fluid leakage If it is there, it will be the slave. Also check under the clutch pedal. If it is there, it will be the master. You could try topping up the master (remove the lid using a long flat screwdriver to tap it round. Remove the rubber insert from the master and top up the clutch fluid using a syringe or similar. Bleed it under the bonnet if necessary and see how it goes. The DMF's rarely need replacing on the 75's unless you are viscious with the left and right feet!;)

if you cant find fluid anywhere and the master cylinder appears to have enough fluid in it then it could again be the master cylinder. A seal has failed allowing fluid to by-pass the seal and remain in the master instead of being pushed towards the slave

macafee2

worth looking at this thread https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=301761

macafee2

i wouldn't think at 87k the dmf doesn't needs changing i had a new clutch fitted at 83k and the dmf was fine and still is rgds mark

1/ How did you detach it ??

2/ The DMF will be fine.

3/ Single mass flywheel is a NO-NO.

4/ If you do get a new slave cylinder fitted then a new driven plate is not dear and can be fitted in just a few minutes with the gearbox off.--( 5 minutes plus the cost of the plate. )

5/ That pedal sticking down could possibly be the seal in the master cylinder.

There are pictures in the ---How-To's of new and old seals to look at.

I think posted by French Mike.

Giving this some thought,
Generally, you are in the clutch change 'zone' from around 80,000 to 120,000 depending on driving style, type of journeys etc.

Lets say you have a hydraulic problem with the slave, seal gone for whatever reason, maybe sometime in the past someone had to reverse up a steep single track lane in Cornwall with a fully loaded car or something, this would have overheated the clutch etc which, in turn, for whatever mechanical reason may have shortened the life of the slave? who knows.

So, why would this necessitate a change of the DMF?

What I mean is, lets say your slave and the other components had held out to 120,000. Would you be thinking of changing the DMF now at 80,000 odd miles? No.

Some clutch places will say you have to change it, for whatever reason, in some cases to get a guarantee on the other parts, but some specialists will say, I have to change maybe 1 in 10 at the most, maybe less. Someone I spoke to, a Rover specialist that came through the dealerships, said he'd done hundreds of clutches ov 75 diesels and only changed two DMF's, never got any back, never got any reported failures.

I suppose what I am saying is that, if you have a hydraulic failure at around 80,000 miles then why shouldn't you DMF last another 40,000 or many more?
My original clutch set-up lasted to 114,000, then it was all changed in DMF.

Clutch plates are cheap, so I would get that done as COLVERT rightly points out, masters can be done without much fuss, no gearbox to drop etc, so its up to you. But if I were you I would fit an OE Borg and Beck clutch kit along with a new slave.

Word of warning. be very careful what slave is used. The metal TZAU ones are worse than the plastic ones in my experience and transfer the bearing noise. Try to source an original OE ex-stock AP Lockhead slave. this will be what was fitted originally and have a proven track record. unfortunately, AP no longer exist, they were taken over by Delphi, maybe the Delphi ones are made on the same tooling to the same spec, I dont know.

Just as a matter of interest given everyone seems to advocate the changing of the DMF, has anyone had one of these fail?

What is the failure rate v/s slave cylinders?

If you dont change one, what would be the mileage that it failed at?

What I mean is, is the so called out of spec backlash really ok for another 100,000?

When you say "everyone seems to advocate the changing of the DMF" who is everyone? I don't think anyone here advocates changing a DMF unless it has failed


macafee2

Yeh, whatever, 'who is everyone' you know what I mean.

don't be Smarta*** :}

?

macafee2