Diesel refusing to start
 

Hi All,i have a problem with starting the car,it cranks but won’t start,i had a T4 from Jamie,who diagnosed a failed ITFP, and so I replaced that with a new one, and that, didn’t make any difference, the UBFP seems to work ok, but have no means of testing the pressure,also there is plenty of fuel in the tank,what other things do I need to check, as I don’t want to waste money,on parts, that I don’t need, I know threads like this one, have been posted, many times, and I have read most of them, but it could be something quite simple,i will appreciate any suggestions,you come up with, I’m desperate to get it back on the road, thanks Ian.

Try an injector leak back test first.

If you have a leaky injector the car won't start.

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thanks trikey,for the feedback, the day before it wouldn’t start, the car was running absolutely fine, so do the injectors go gradually,or can they just pop, and start leaking,in an instant, I will try the leakback test, when I get the kit,

Hi Andy.
I spoke to Ian today shortly on the phone, and asked him how was the car before it decided not to start, and as above it was running ok, but as you know and myself have seen that an injector can fail, so that was my first thought to Ian.

It then transpired that it was T4 by Jamie who diagnosed a failed ITFP, Ian replaced the ITP on that diagnosis to still be left with the car not starting, therefore over the phone we went through a few steps.

First was could he hear the new ITP purring, answer was yes, had it been fitted back correctly, yes.

We then decided to unplug the UBP make sure the contacts were clean and making good connection, all was correct even though the pump sounded a bit noisy when priming, ie with ignition at II it cuts out after 40 seconds which most do anyways they can go a little longer sometimes as you may well know.

We the decided to give it a little tap just to make sure the UBP was not sticking, and is was not, tried starting car no go

So our next step was to unplug the the low pressure connector on the fuel filter top, photo is not from actual car.
https://i.imgur.com/18IHjkGl.jpg1

Tried is again hoping it would start, still no go.

Then we unplugged the MAF as i have in the past with one diesel car (Alberts) found his car would not start with the MAF connected again another no go.

So then we /he did a quick flow test on the UBP removing the hose and inserting it into a bottle, to see if the flow was steady and no spluttering, the results are below.





Both the video's seem to show a good steady flow of fuel, therefore ruling out *UBP.

I said to Ian you are always best to have a T4 fault finding /diagnosis session done by someone whom is wiling to get their hands dirty and solve it for you there and then, otherwise in my opinion there is no point to the session other than you have been giving their opinion of what might be the problem with investigating any further :shrug:

So Andy i am with you it would be best to do a leak back test, and also Ian make sure the needle is bouncing when you are trying to start the car.

Another thought could the ECU have gone for a swim or maybe the ECU capacitors are not cranking at their correct voltage.

His battery is also new another thought could it be the O-rings on the regulator.

His battery is also new another thought could it be the O-rings on the regulator.

This is exactly how mine went, From running perfectly all day to not starting when I came back to it from the shop. After a little investigation It would start with some Easy start and would run fine all day. Occasionally it would start and run OK. I then read on here about the HP regulator seals and sure enough one was split.. So if it starts with a squirt of easy start then as Steve has suggested it could be the HP regulator seals:shrug:

thanks for your reply, really appreciate it, I will check the seals on the HP regulator, and will let you know,how I get on.

thanks Steve for your reply,i will try the leak back test,and try a few other tests, I’m sure that ECU isn’t under water, but not sure about the capacitors,

Hi Ian.
This is the kit if it turns out to be the regulator, but a leak back test would be first port of call, did you notice if the needle moves when cranking it, another thought when was the fuel filter last changed sometime they can clog up and not allow the right pressure.

The plenums were and are dry aren't they.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333148956495

Leak back kit
 

Hi Ian.
below is a link to the leak back kit, or you could make a Ghetto kit up with some clear tubing, and four syringes turned upside down, or run the tubing into the four small clear plastic bottles.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312803298057

Bit rude that is. I was asked to plug a T4 in, not for doing full none starting diagnostics. LP was reading less than 200kpa and the in tank pump was dead. HP wasn't getting above 20000kpa, it needs over 30000kpa to start. Battery also died on the car while reading live data so couldn't do any more. Rev counter was moving whilst cranking. I also didn't say that the failed pump was the only issue, that needed to be replaced before further testing could be done, could have hoped it was the only issue but it obviously isn't.

There is a huge difference between paying for a T4 to be plugged in and for full diagnosis of a fault. Diagnosis needs to be charged at an hourly rate by a garage that have the means to pull injectors out and bench test then etc. Can't really do much more when the fuel pressures are too low for the injectors to fire and then the battery dies.

My advice is get the car to a garage with the means to do more testing. Plugging the T4 in identified that the ITFP was dead and not providing the front end enough pressure to even attempt to fire up. This needed replacing to start looking at the next issue.

Nice to see you offer to do the 70 mile round trip on short notice to plug a T4 in just to see what is happening.

People need to understand, there is a big difference between asking someone to plug a T4 in, and doing full diagnostics of an issue. A none starting issue can take hours and hours to diagnose. Might even have to resort to pulling glow plugs to do a compression test.