Only one Key
 

To all you experts out there I have two questions.

When I bought the car it only had one key, looking at the information I received I found an envelope " Ignition Key Codes " , inside two tags with codes on . The codes are not the same. If I bought a blank key what else would be required in order to have two keys. What is my next move. Any suggestions would be very helpful .

Has anyone repaired the rear headlining interior curtesy light (Saloon) ? Driving along the Lamp Holder popped out , the two plastic lugs have both broken off .
I have visited a scrapyard locally & national scrapyard websites , all to now avail . Again any suggestions would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Martyn

I am repairing the broken plastic lugs right now, same happened to mine, using 2 component glue. You could order a new one at aliexpress searching for roewe 75. With a bit of work it fits I have red.

This may help
 

As regards a second key you are going to need basic key shell , arm , transponder and PCB. Some programming will also be called for I would think. I strongly suggest you send a PM to Jamiewelch . See the recent thread I raised https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=308742 .
Jamie may need the BCU out of the car – if so you get to it by removing the Glove box . There is a first rate guide by Arctic on doing this to be found at
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...t=sunroof+leak

As regards the rear headlining interior curtesy light I recently had the same problem and , as I recall, I –
• Drilled a couple of holes in the reflector area of the light housing
• placed a strip of wood across the opening , above the liner
• drove two screws ( in the holes) into the wood
This is holding up perfectly well. Was a bit fiddly re screws into the wood but once done things hold very firmly.

Hi,
Unfortunately you cannot just buy a blank key for a Rover 75. It needs a motherboard and most important, a Microchip transponder that is matched to your VIN. You can buy a brand new one that comes already to start the car and will work the central locking via the door lock. The remote function will not work without a session on a T4 to match the rolling code. Rimmer Bros can help. Part number CWD000060 from memory.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-CWD000060

Further point
 

Not too sure about previous post :-

• The Key on Rimmers is £186 – a lot . Then , as has been stated , it would need programming for the specific vehicle via a T4 . Does not say on Rimmer if it comes with transponder – I assume so.

• Alternatively on EBay I see you can buy :-

• Full Key for £30 – Shell , blade , pcb , transponder

• See https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-ROVER...gAAOSweP9eR~0m
• Again , it would need programming via a T4 for the vehicle

I strongly suggest you contact Jamiewelch and put all this too him – there is a LOT of difference between £186 and £30 !! May well buy one of the latter myself.

Those I recommended from Rimmers are genuine OE keys. They will be supplied direct from BMW ( Via XPart) prematched to the VIN.
With warranty

So the question is.....Do you want genuine OE or risk Eway thingy ?????:getmecoat::shrug:

Oh, forgot to mention that these will work straight out the bag. Will open the doors and start the car.
Oh, and the key blade is precut to match your door locks and ignition.
Just won't work for remote locking without T4. Rolling codes need matching for that function.
And of course it comes with a transponder ! Pre programmed to the VIN request when ordered !

Only one Key
 

What information & knowledge can be found on this site. Thanks to Azur, Rickshaw & SKS Disco, for the very quick response . I will follow up with a message to Jamiewelch ref the key , but I will look at all suggestions .
The solution to the Light is similar to my thinking.
As its throwing it down in Swindon, the light will have wait another day, or two.

Many thanks , Martyn

One last thing
 

In my earlier post I mentioned Arctic's splendid How to relating to BCU removal. If you do happen to go down that route I would also point you at another helpful post Arctic post relating to removal of the BCU plugs. This is to be found at post #6 in thread https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=249323.
THE hard plug to remove is the biggest one - which has an unusual 'Sliding' mechanism - the main body of the plug into which the many wires stream in is surrounded by a three sided Shell. This Shell has to be moved out , over the edge of the BCU , in a direction away from the other two plugs. Arctic shows a picture in which he inserts a screw driver close to the main wires body to achieve this sliding. Alternatively , after pushing the sliding surround slightly over the BCU edge , you can then slip a screw driver up the side of the BCU , into the overhanging Shell and lever that way ( I did this).
By the way , I know Jamiewelch can supply a new PCB for a good price, he may well be able to supply an entire key ( all parts) at a competative cost.
All the best

Only one Key
 

Rickshaw, Many thanks for yet another very comprehensive , and detailed "How To". As a practical person, who doesn't know a lot about cars, all the experts on the site blow my mind at times.

Many thanks
Martyn