To change or not to change this flywheel?
Hi!
I have just removed my gearbox to change the clutch (which was slipping) and the slave and master cylinders (bought new ones from DMGRS) on my ZT-T cdti Mk2. I did it the long way by removing the subframe. Now that I can see the flywheel, I am wondering if I should keep it or not. It has a lot of thermic marks (cf. pics). However, it has only two teeth of play and very little radial play, maybe 1mm. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c84e9dc127.jpg https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c84adb7e9b.jpg https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c84d8471e4.jpg So the question is, can I safely avoid buying a new flywheel? Thanks :) |
Hi Jacques, it's within LUK tolerances for both axial and radial play, I would be tempted to clean the face lightly with 180 grade production paper and box it up.
The clutch must have been slipping quite badly? Brian :D |
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Thanks a lot for your answer, guys :)
Yes Brian, this clutch has been slipping and then not slipping for more than a year. But now, with a caravan in the equation, I had no choice but change it. The worse time it had, was the day we brought the caravan in the garden for the first time. Lots of manoeuvres and a big smell of hot clutch. Other than that everytime it really slipped on the road, often in 5th gear, picking up from 80km/h with too much pressure on the right pedal, I always lifted my foot to prenvent it to slip. So yeah, it has slipped on many occasions even though I was cautious not to accelerate too much. Soon, I'll reenjoy the pleasure of that infamous 160 upgrade in 5th gear :) So my plan is to clean the flywheel surface and check for high/low spots as suggested by slovcan. |
Is that a replacement driven plate you are taking out? The one I have just removed from my 133,000 mile 2001 CDT appears to be the original, springless, German made one. It only slipped slightly on hard acceleration (still 114bhp). It had worn the rivet heads off on one side, and broken them through the thin, remaining friction material on the other side, so the friction material was effectively free floating, causing bad judder at take-off. While there is some heat marking on the flywheel, and 1, light diagonal score line, it looks nothing like as severe as yours. I am still not sure how much damage was done by the garage mechanic who "tested" my clutch by holding the car on the brakes, and increasing the throttle pressure as he let the clutch out oh so slowly until it started smoking and slipping, fully out, at which point he stopped the test, and confirmed that my clutch was knackered. Brought a whole new meaning to heel-and-toe! And meant I didn't engage his services for the clutch change.
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My rules is to never manoeuvrer with it attached to the car, I use the mover for that, or push it by hand, or use a hand winch to get it up my drive. |
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By the way, I decided to keep the flywheel and everything is working well :)
However I think I put too much glue on the clutch disc because when I first started the engine on neutral, I couldn't engage any gear. My solution was to turn off the engine, engage the 4th gear, fully press the cluth pedal and starting the engine. This was enough to unglue the disc from the flywheel! Thanks for your help and tips. This forum and the people who participate are gold!! |
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