Slow progress...
 

Well my efforts to renew the rear suspension on my ZT are going fairly slowly, set backs being that the replacement suspension arms when sand blasted were no good so have to buy new ones. And then the clutch going meant the car wasn't even here/moveable for nearly 2 weeks.

Knackered arms:

https://i.imgur.com/hqik8wjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5oRDMQml.jpg

I have at least managed to refurbish a rear subframe, using paint recommended by Marinabrian (I know he no longer visits here, but thanks for the help).

I started painting the subframe with a brush, then wasn't sure how to get to all the internal areas, when I suddenly remembered I had a compressor and a box of accessories that I'd never used. Amongst them were a couple of spray guns, so I managed to use one of those to spray all the insides. As far as I can see I've managed to get all of it well covered, in Bondages rust primer, and then chassis paint. All that's left to do to it now (and to the new suspension arms) is find a suitable product, waxoyl, dinitrol, or something to treat the parts.

https://i.imgur.com/AhAgqYQl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ps6LMdnl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wsyu3Ool.jpg

I was hoping to get it done this going weekend, as if it takes too long and runs in to next week, I can use my wires car for work as I'm on nights, but last time I checked the forecast the weather isn't looking great.

List of parts to be fitted:
Refurbished subframe,
upper arms,
lower arms,
new rear dampers,
New anti roll bar and drop links
plus all new bolts (all the ones Rimmers had in stock anyway, need a new captive nut, but they aren't due in stock until November)
Just realised I forgot to order new brackets and rubbers for the anti roll bar! Damn! Will have to get them ordered tomorrow.

New springs were fitted a couple a months ago so they'll be fine.

I've had a look in the how to section, and I found a thread about replacing the rear arms, but I couldn't find anything about removing and replacing the subframe.
Has anyone got any advice, is it best to strip it down one part at a time, and then replace individually? Or would I be best making up the subframe with the suspension arms while its off the car, and fit as one piece? I've not located my haynes manual yet, but it looks like the exhaust will need dropping out the way, and then only 4 bolts actually holding the subframe on. Any advice and tips would be great, thanks.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0cf6a8be94.jpg

I tackled this last year, you need to drop the exhaust out of the way to gain access.

It’s best to build up the subframe and the upper and lower arms off the vehicle as it makes access easier. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4548c5a15d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ff1a5847c.jpg


It’s also a great opportunity to replace the tank strap and tackle other potential rust issues!


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Thanks, great photos! And good thought about the fuel tank straps, I hadn't given that a thought, will see if I can get one ordered. I think I'll take the opportunity to clean up the underside around there, and treat that with waxoyl or something too.

Take a quick look at my build thread

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=280232

There’s some more photos in there from when I tackled the same job, hopefully it will give you some pointers.

This is also a very useful thread for a refurb

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...pension+refurb

I found it very helpful


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If my experience was anything to go by Derrick, I would say it is considerably easier to fit the subframe without the arms fitted.


I found once the subframe was offered up and held up using a shoulder ( I was working with the car on axle stands, the bolts were easy enough to refit to the body, and the upper arms were easy to refit to the subframe, and the lowers even easier.


It was noted by the MOT tester last Friday too...........sometimes it just "helps" when our car looks nice and clean underneath !!


And yes, the exhaust needs to be off to do the job.

I fitted the sub frame and then all the parts to it.
As you have the car apart do check the sub frame fail safe washers and toe in brackets for rust but you will need to get the tracking checked if you remove the toe in brackets.

When tightening the bolts, do have the car sitting on its wheels, in the air wheels hanging is not the way to do it.

Thanks to lock down, I got to spend 7 or 8 weeks on and off doing the front and rear suspension :)

macafee2

Brilliant post, and excellent work!
Just a quick heads up, a member of another forum had an issue with the XPart-issued FC112187A bolts for the rear arms - when torqued to spec one sheared.
It was a fairly recent issue - wouldn't want you fitting them from the same batch if affected, that's all.
I've got a detailed description of the issue saved if it's of interest, but I won't post it publicly here.

A shame the rear arms were too far gone; the quality of the originals far outweighs any of the current 'options' so I'm a fan of saving them where possible.

Absolutely lovely to see such in-depth work being carried out to one of our fine cars :D
Edit: just to add, I'd fit the subframe and then everything to it. They're incredibly heavy when fully built-up.

Great work, are realignment pins used to reinstall the subframe?

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No pins required, just locate the subframe on the bolts and offer it up to the bodyshell.

Thanks, I'll have a look over those threads.

Thanks, my plan was to use a trolley jack with a scaffolding board on it to support the subframe and lift it into place. But that depends on how high I manage to get the car up on the axle stands.

I agree presentation seems to help at MOT time.

Thanks, I'm pretty sure I cleaned up and painted the toe in brackets last year. I definitely did the drivers side as I had to take it off to replace the trailing arm. Have to ask though, what are the failsafe washers? And thanks for the tip about doing the bolts up. I'll have to swap it all over, lower it down then back it up on the ramps to tighten it all up properly.

Unfortunately I've got from Friday afternoon until Sunday evening. If its not done by then I've got to use my wives car to get to work, and try and get things done in the evenings and the following weekend.

Was that on facebook? I think I saw that post. It did worry me a bit, but I'd rather not reuse the old bolts.

I don't suppose you can supply the brackets for the anti-roll bar (MG ZT) and the rubber blocks that fit in to them too?