Steering wheel misaligned question
Morning, my 75 has had a weep from the rack for quite some time, the MOT garage would highlight it ever 2 years or so. Had both front lower wishbones replaced along with drop links, fitting the near side lower wishbone knocked the steering out, so ok get alignment checked. Remember getting done a 2-3 years back and was told the rods would need replacing next time, so get new rods and back to garage who were unable to replace them due to ‘not enough threads on the rack’, and it’s got a slight leak. So bit the bullet, got new (reconditioned) rack along with set of inner rods. Rack off, all rods replaced, steering out of course, off to get Hunter 4 wheel done, back near side toe is out but can’t be adjusted for fear of snapping bolts. Set the front up, but steering wheel is well out, get steering wheel straight leaves only about 6 threads on the near side rod, garage wouldn’t leave it like that in case of snapping or bending if a pothole was hit. He seems to think the rack hasn’t been rebuilt correctly when getting refurbished. I can’t face getting the rack all stripped back out, is there any suggestions regarding getting the wheel straight? Can the u/v joint at bottom of steering column simply be disconnected, wheel turned around to straight ahead and re-connected? I don’t believe I can adjust the wheel itself because of the splines? Long question, sorry!
|
For ease you can just remove the steering wheel and line it up on the column correctly.
The worrying part is the comments from the garage 'not enough thread' is a concern to me, it sounds like the garage hasnt lined things up correctly before refitting. I would book in with cossie dunc who knows the cars inside out and have him take a look for you, it could be something as simple as lining up the rack correctly and refitting the track rods correctly. |
Quote:
The rear alignment must be set-up correctly before the front is adjusted so find someone competent to do it. The bolts will be fine. My car is four years older than yours and I loosened those bolts with ease the day before I went to the Hunter alignment centre. ;) Quote:
If you start with this, your steering wheel and rack will be aligned. The next step is to adjust the rear geometry followed by the front. Please let us know how you get on. Simon |
Lots of dodgy work done on your steering and tie rods. New rods, correct for the car, should have fitted straight on with no trouble.--You've paid out a lot for un-necessary work by incompetent fitters.--:eek:
Next garage you use make sure they fully understand Rover cars.-- Take trikeys advice and be safe.---:D:D:D |
Sounds to like they haven't centred the rack before connecting it to the steering column.
|
Quote:
From your description , You have removed the steering column at the U/J from the original rack without removing the steering wheel . Fitting the reconditioned rack , once the U/J refitted and the steering wheel aligned in the correct position , the rack is out of centre as i am guessing you have one side track rod end o/s over threaded to compensate for the other side n/s under threaded When the rack has been reconditioned the rack has not been centralised to the pinion correctly and the flat on the pinion shaft is not in the right orientation to the U/J on the column. In the correct position the flat is at an angle when set correctly and again I am guessing it been set vertically (12 to 6) This means to centralise the rack the steering wheel is off centre , Just moving the wheel on the splines isn't the correct resolution as i believe will affect indicator cancellation as well . |
Thanks for all the info/replies. I’ll let Cossie Dunc have a look, hopefully just the rack hasn’t been centred before connecting the u/j? Will keep you all up to date with outcome.
|
All times are GMT. The time now is 10:04. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd