MK1 vs MK2 CDT Fuel Pump Cage?
 

Hi guys/girls,

Well, as you may have noticed (or not) I have had precious little time to visit.

I STILL have not resolved my ABS sensor fault, but I have made a note NOT to buy from Rimmers if other options exist. They didn't offer me any assurance whatsoever that they would warranty the sensor I bought from them - just send it back and they will test it and if faulty they will send a replacement. What if the replacement is also faulty? After a couple of go arounds the shipping would pay for a new sensors and save weeks of shipping time. Maybe I will get lucky and make the Rimmers one work somehow.

I will hopefully have my diagnostic cable solder-modded and have her plugged into TOAF over the weekend.

The next 2 jobs will be to replace the right front door latch assembly and test the fuel level sender resistances. I have a working door latch from a ZT so, hopefully that will get all door locks working again (right front and right rear don't unlock now). I have the fuel pump assembly from the ZT as well, if the right side sender proves faulty. The left side is also available for me if needed.

Now, the donor ZT was a two pump system. Mine is the single in-tank pump system. It looks like I have to swap my pump into the ZT cage that incorporates the sending unit. I have to change the actual cage to change the sending unit, right? If so, does the new style MK2 pump fit in the cage from a MK1? This is really the big question in this post for me.

Thank you,
Glenn

Good morning folks,

Well, I had a look at the Rimmer Bros website and cannot see any listing for a separate fuel level sender. There are listings for the fuel pump assembly and the module on the left side of the tank. The pictures show both include the fuel level senders.

Does this mean the entire module or pump assembly must be changed to replace a sending unit?

Cheers,
Glenn

That is how the new parts come, but I guess it's possible to dismantle the assemblies and replace only the parts needed. That would mean getting a second hand assembly to do it yourself.

There's a HowTo on repairing the float/rheostat gizmo.
Click: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=194156
Unfortunately, it hasn't been recovered from the Photobucket ransom. Maybe there's a later edition somewhere?

TC

Thanks TC. OK, I'll have a microscopic look at the cage/pump assembly I have from the 2 pump ZT and see if I can get the pump out of it. I will also keep my fingers crossed that it is a poor connection at the plug or a bad left side module.

Cheers,
Glenn

What is the fuel reading fault Glenn? Have you checked the in tank pipework to make sure it isnt fouling the float arms? Not unknown on the right hand module when the ITP is changed if the venturi pump pipes aren't clipped back into position.

Hi Mike,

The gauge needle will point to the 08:00 position when full and stay there until I have driven about 200 kms at which time it will be pointing at the 06:00 position (empty). The trip computer and low fuel light seem to be accurate.

With only 200,000 kms I can't see why the fuel pump would have been tampered with since it is a MK2 with the single pump system. I guess I will check the resistance readings first to see if that points to one side or the other.

Cheers,
Glenn