Autobox
 

I have spare duty solenoids for the autobox ready to fit when needed. i need to buy a front pan gasket for the gearbox for when required. the old method of sealing the cover has been replaced by a gasket. sussex autos i think will have one im sure, but i have seen these gaskets in both standard and a new neoprine type advertised on ebay. but wondered about what would be best. has anyone used the newer type ? ... thanks

There was a cork type one I purchased on recommendation from the forum. To me it seemed rather thick (although it is the correct size and shape). Reading in Rave if I recall, it mentioned gasket sealant. I purchased some black sealant suited to the job - I cannot recall the name, unfortunately (checking on google, THIS one looks familiar, but I would verify this first). My plan was to make the decision on which to use when I actually was 'in front of the job'.

I was reluctant to use both methods together, and with the pan being mounted vertically, I figured the safest method, with only having two hands to do the job, was to clean the mating surfaces, and use the sealant. Three years on and all appears fine.

I assume you have ATF as there is quite a bit to replace, if I recall I drained about 3-4 litres prior, with a quantity leaking from the pan on removal.

As a side note, keep your old solenoids, even any faulty ones, as they may be repairable. see HERE and also a video of a teardown of the JF506E as a visual guide.

EDIT: Just discovered a similar solenoid repair carried out by Sonic HERE, with the repair failing after around 500 miles.

If you use gasket sealant then it's best to leave it to cure properly otherwise it can get into the box.

For an instant repair it's better to use a cork gasket instead.

Russ

thankyou both for your replies. a full fluid change would be on the cards anyway. clf was the cork gasket from ebay or from the jatco people (sussex autobox repair ) ? i would like to go down the gasket road if possible, but not unless it was made for the job and ends up (too thick) . i suppose if overtightened whilst using a gasket could warp the pan if too thick. the bolts are a low torque fit anyway but it would be easy to do damage i think. im wondering if the sealant method may turn out to be the better bet , as russ sugested. i have rensol and also blue holymer but im not sure if either of these would stand up tp ATF erosion. :xmas-smiley-008:

it was ebay, THIS is the item recommended. It was well packed, and if I recall, had branding on it, ie not a cheap chinese gasket thrown into an envelope - although it could have been for all I know lol. It was only £9 or £10 though, maybe that was why it was posted on the forum - a bargain spotted?

Also if you look at the various alternative fitments, you can search on youtube for further videos if you want a visual guide (eg xtype or VW, as in one of the videos I linked to above). When you come to do it, it is pretty straightforward and self explanatory, although the solenoids are a different story, they can be a little confusing in their layout, eg the 2/4 duty one needed another solenoid bolt removed before it could be removed. Take an image when you get the pan off to aid the various locations.

I cannot comment on which sealant to use, and defer to Russ for his recommendation on the gasket. The gasket is thick, and it overtightening whilst possible, a bit of good sense whilst tightening them up will get you by. The problem I foresaw was the number of bolts on the pan (22?!!) made me fearful of getting one or two in the correct location only for another side to slip out of position. It was bitterly wet and cold, and I didnt have the luxury of a garage or a spare pair of hands to assist lol. I went with the sealant, making a fine bead, making sure it would seal on the inner side of the bolts. As Russ said, let it flash off slightly to make sure it didnt sag into the inner edges of the pan, falling into the 'box.

The image attached was of mine. Midway through cleaning the mating face (two credit type cards, one on the inner edge to deflect the scraped sealant).


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...92eedbefc7.jpg

Auto Box Jatco JF 506 E
 

This is the only automatic gearbox in our Rover cars ( 45 & 75 ) paired with all engines, according to documentation. The reverse break band is either snapped or fallen in the gearbox as there heavily going forward and no Reverse either. Is there is a way to hook it back without opening the box ? Can anyone advise ? ( I cannot see how I can attach a picture here )

Hello Vlad,

You've asked this question in a new thread which is the right thing to do. Tagging it onto another thread is not recommended as answers to two different problems in the same thread is messy and causes confusion.

Thanks.

Simon

:iagree:

You can order a Duraprene gasket from JP Automatic Transmissions. The part no. is N2282503.

JPAT are a blue chip automatic gearbox parts and reconditioning specialist which I have used many times with one hundred per cent satisfaction.

Simon

hi somon thanks for the heads up. i have just ordered a NEOPRENE gasket from a company on ebay. i dont know what the difference will be compared to the jpat one, but the supplier on ebay is a gearbox maual and autobox specialist only . so it should be ok , but we will see. it was about £4 cheaper than the cork version, which i was not over enthusiastic about. back in the day how many rocker cover gaskets can you remember with the leaking cork gaskets ? it would probably have been fine , but it just put me off a bit. ... :smiley:

this NEOPRENE gasket i have ordered is from the same supplier that clf ordered from when he bought his cork version. gives me a bit more confidence in them. ONE STOP AUTO SHOP . again though if its too thick i may use the sealant route without a gasket. we will see.