The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/index.php)
-   Technical Help Forum (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=11)
-   -   ZT-T 190 disappearing oil? (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=296672)

PC2 17th June 2019 13:23

ZT-T 190 disappearing oil?
 
Afternoon.
My ZT-T 190 is using far too much oil. My original 190 never ever used any oil, even well over 100, 000 miles.
My new one has only just done 60K. Its tight, smooth, VIS working well etc.
There are no visible oil leaks.
There is no smoke or residue from exhaust pipe.
Some people mention the breather gauzes and pipes being blocked. Is this likely to use 1/2 litre every 1k miles?
Is this job easy - my back wont allow me to bend over engines for too long anymore, so should I take to a mechanic?

SD1too 17th June 2019 21:38

Paul,

There's a particular procedure for checking oil level on the KV6. It must be done with a hot engine and after waiting for a number of minutes. Would you like me to post the procedure?

Simon

PC2 18th June 2019 08:29

Hi Simon - thanks for that. Despite finding it difficult to find any level ground in Brighton, I have checked the oil hot and cold and follow the correct steps. For ages I just believed it was because of not finding perfectly level ground, and also perhaps no following the correct procedure, but I am now convinced it is using oil.
I regularly check, but can't work out what is going on.
Any other ideas would be great. Is there a simple way of checking whether the breather holes are blocked? If blocked, can I unblock without taking the head off - ie through the breather pipe connections?

Canonite 18th June 2019 12:09

Do you have any smoke upon cold start up?
Even if it’s just a small puff of smoke, it would indicate a possible issue with the piston rings in one or more of the cylinders. If you do, pull the spark plugs one at a time when the engine is cold and see what they look like to identify which cylinder it may be.
You may also have a leaky gasket somewhere and the oil is burning off

PC2 18th June 2019 14:09

Hi Canonite
No smoke on starting up or at any other time. The engine feels really tight (its only just done 60K), no rattles, smooth and clear power pick up just over 3000 revs, pulling smoothly to the red line (though I haven't actually ever gone quite that far). That's why I'm so confused. And no particular smell of burning oil after a long run from the engine compartment.

Rich in Vancouver 19th June 2019 00:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too (Post 2741393)
Paul,

There's a particular procedure for checking oil level on the KV6. It must be done with a hot engine and after waiting for a number of minutes. Would you like me to post the procedure?

Simon

Simon, If you don't mind please post the procedure. Checking the oil on my KV6's drives me to distraction. I usually wait a good long while to check after driving and the measurement varies wildly.:banghead:

SD1too 19th June 2019 07:09

Taking dipstick readings on the KV6 engine
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich in Vancouver (Post 2741673)
Simon, If you don't mind please post the procedure.

The following is quoted from an MG Rover bulletin:

"A significant amount of engine oil is retained in the upper levels of the engine. Should a level check be carried out on an engine that has recently been switched off, a low oil level reading may result. This may mislead dealers and customers into concluding that the engine has consumed a quantity of oil.

A revised oil level checking procedure has been developed and will be introduced into future editions of the owners handbook. The procedure is as follows:
Ensure that the engine is at full working temperature. Turn off the engine.
Remove the dipstick and allow the oil to drain down for 5 minutes.
Clean the dipstick and insert it gently into the tube until the 'O' ring on the handle moulding is about to enter the tube.
Slowly push dipstick fully home.
Wait for 5 seconds, withdraw the dipstick and take the level reading.

Should a second reading be required it will be necessary to repeat operations 2 to 5 to allow the dipstick tube to drain down. Similarly, should it be necessary to add oil to the engine, operations 2 to 5 must be repeated."


Is that what you've been doing Paul? It's not easy to see the level when the graticule is black plastic, like mine. Also, oil smears along it as the dipstick is withdrawn and it bears against the tube. I find that pressing it against a sheet of kitchen towel gives the best chance of a meaningful result.

Simon

PC2 19th June 2019 09:18

It is pretty much what I do. I will try again today and see when I find some level ground (which I presume also makes a big difference.
On my last ZTT the dipstick was black, stupid idea, so i painted it white.
This ZTT has green tip?

PC2 21st June 2019 09:46

okay, so the car had an oil service in January.
It now oil level on dipstick is halfway between min/max, but that is after adding 1/2 litre of oil.
I have covered 4,200 miles.
I noticed they used 5/40 oil, thinner than the recommended 10/40.

I just don't expect an engine to use oil unless it worn or leaking. Anyone got any ideas?
If it's the cam breathers, do I have to remove the cover and will I need new gaskets?

SD1too 21st June 2019 11:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by PC2 (Post 2741746)
It is pretty much what I do.

Hi Paul,

"Pretty much" means that there's a difference between MG Rover's recommendation and what you've been doing. :D
Quote:

Originally Posted by PC2 (Post 2742233)
It now oil level on dipstick is halfway between min/max, but that is after adding 1/2 litre of oil.

So did you take this reading by following MGR's procedure exactly? If so, I would put some more miles on the car and check again to see if it's made any difference.
Quote:

I noticed they used 5/40 oil, thinner than the recommended 10/40.
5W40 is also listed for "all engine types".
Quote:

If it's the cam breathers, do I have to remove the cover and will I need new gaskets?
Yes, you have to remove the camshaft covers. Unfortunately the RH bank requires removal of the manifold chamber first. Remember to observe the torque and sequence for the screws.
The gaskets are metal. I didn't renew mine but some members have reported deterioration of a coating.

Simon


All times are GMT. The time now is 21:38.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd