I know of cars Tom has also painted the correct cour but the owner supplied the paint. He does a great job.

Jack Pads
 

I had the same issue with my ZT, only ever had the one jack pad fitted and it was the only one that rotted. All the others are fine.
That's my experience I now don't have any fitted.

Can the car be jacked up without using the pad? (I've never tried it)

Yes - but I would always put something soft such as a square of wood or an ice hockey puck to prevent the jack causing any localised indentations or damage to the coatings.

Is there centre rear jacking point?

I was planning on using a 200mm length of wood sleeper - either on the same axis as the sill, or at 90 degrees to it.

I was just wondering whether it would be better with or without the jacking pad in between the sleeper and the car. Without the pad, the sleeper would be touching/lifting either side of the jacking point (as well as the jacking point itself) - is this ok? That's the vital question.

(Perhaps I should start a separate thread on this :getmecoat:).

I also use wood sleepers - a 3mx250mmx125mm sleeper cut into 400mm lengths for support. I make sure that the pad is in place and even when I have used the sleeper pieces without the pad, I used a similar sized square of wood to bear the load.

The reason being that there is only support for jacking in the area of the pad - beyond this the sill will deform relatively easily.

See this photo of the support structure from Simon aka sd1too.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...75&postcount=5

Thanks, that's what I thought - i.e. to avoid bending the sill, the car should only be supported by the jacking point area and nothing (wood or otherwise) should be in contact with the sill either side of it.

My OSR jacking point has some rust but nothing like the 1st pic here or 2nd pic in post 3 here. I've prodded the sill all around the pad hole with a sharp point and it's solid, only the edges of the hole itself are a bit flaky/rusty.

A thought occurs (might be a silly idea) but what about filling the jacking points with expanded foam? Imagine Simon's repaired sill (2nd pic here) completely full of rock hard expanded foam. Would it prevent rust by stopping condensation forming or water entering?

I've used this stuff for central heating pipes and it would easily fill a jacking point - Soudal - it sets extremely hard.

https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-g...ng-foam/p52365

Well, I am from the school of thought which says that preventing any form of rot (of which rust is one) requires free flow of dry air and that any form of injected material will accelerate the rot by trapping existing rust and moisture.

My approach would be to to have the support areas strengthened and treated before rust takes hold. Most people would consider this to be mad but in my view, once rust takes hold it is all downhill.

I had the few areas of superficial rust cut out and removed from the sills of my Omega at 18 years of age. The sills were also inspected internally. With that circa £600 of welding, I am expecting the car's structure to outlast the upper body panels.