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-   -   Jacking Rail (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=305020)

ardvark 19th May 2020 18:29

Jacking Rail
 
Has anyone come across a Jacking Rail for our cars?
The one I'm on about is the Rail that fits under the sill that links the two jacking points on the off side or the near side.
I like the idea of a Rail that locates via the sill jacking point holes giving me the possibility of jacking the car up from anywhere along the sill and NOT denting the sill at the same time.
If one isn't about what thickness rectangular steel tube would be best for the job?
I could make one myself then. Although I wouldn't have it as a permanent fixture.

BRG75 19th May 2020 19:35

I'll be interested to see what responses you receive.

Unless somebody has actually done this, I would hazard a guess at a 3" box section, with 1/8" walls (75mm x 75mm x 3mm) and see if it flexes.

If it does, either keep the material for the future, and go up a size or two; or weld on some reinforcing angle iron.

Regards

Mike

marinabrian 19th May 2020 19:52

The bodyshell is torsionally rigid enough to jack at one end of the sill, and have both ends lift together....I use an 18" long length of 4"x 2" with a section shaped to accept the cup of my axle stand.

By removing the jacking pad, and placing the jack under the timber with the shaped section directly below the jacking point, the car can be lifted then lowered directly onto the stand.

It doesn't damage the paint, misshape the sill, and provides a secure position to support the car.

The other advantage being it saves loads of hassle trying to reinvent the wheel ;)

Brian :D

BRG75 19th May 2020 20:13

I just came back to my laptop to edit / add that axle stands should of course also be used, before any work is carried out.

Brian's reply covers this, together with a proven solution, that I suspect few would have thought off. I certainly wouldn't have done.

Regards

Mike

75driver 19th May 2020 20:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2813447)
The bodyshell is torsionally rigid enough to jack at one end of the sill, and have both ends lift together....I use an 18" long length of 4"x 2" with a section shaped to accept the cup of my axle stand.

By removing the jacking pad, and placing the jack under the timber with the shaped section directly below the jacking point, the car can be lifted then lowered directly onto the stand.

It doesn't damage the paint, misshape the sill, and provides a secure position to support the car.

The other advantage being it saves loads of hassle trying to reinvent the wheel ;)

Brian :D


I was going to ask, why remove the jacking pad, but I guess it’s so the 4x2 remains flush (along its 18” length) with the sill?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ardvark 21st May 2020 18:04

How about a length of 3x3 or 4x3 timber along the full length of the sill.
Jacking the car up from the centre of the timber. Would it flex enough to damage the sill?

Blink 24th May 2020 13:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by ardvark (Post 2813840)
How about a length of 3x3 or 4x3 timber along the full length of the sill.
Jacking the car up from the centre of the timber. Would it flex enough to damage the sill?

You could find out by leaving the jacking pads on the car - then there'd be an air gap between the centre of the timber and the sill. Lift very slowly and see if the wood bends upwards.

Personally, I wouldn't trust it.

Blink 24th May 2020 13:48

https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/2000kg-tilting-car-lift-cl03-2/

Hmm.

marinabrian 24th May 2020 14:41

You could always use something like THIS


Lot's of useful stuff on that site :drool4:

Brian :D

Blink 24th May 2020 15:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2814434)
You could always use something like THIS

That's more like it - it definitely won't bend in the middle. :D

Good value too.


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