Options for the fan
 

So today I stripped the front off again to do a couple of jobs and thought it would be a good idea to look at the fan as it hasn't worked since I brought the car.
Finally got it all stripped out and there is a bit of play in the fan but it spins fine , unlike last time I looked at it when it was stuck fast but forcing it round with a screwdriver freed it up.
Looking in the Control box its surprisingly clean.
The back of fan is rather rusty though.

So do I change the lot
Or contact jules
Or struggle to strip the fan down and see what the brushes are like.

Any more checks I can do?

Didn't bother to put it back on as I will only have to take it off again

Stan

Ps
I think I need a new condenser as well

I've faced the same problem and have managed to bring back 5 motors to life of perhaps 8, by replacing the brushes. The "lost" 3 suffered either from terminal commutator damage or cracked magnets.

I'd open the motor and see if the brushes are the probable cause, cheap enough from Simon's friends if you are in the UK and don't have to pay the extortionate overseas postage.

I've also replaced a few fans for local owners, buying the new fans once available on eBay. The ones with the spindle press fitting rather than the bayonet type, plus resistor. But I see these have all gone, shame, the price wasn't too bad about £200.

I must admit I'm not a great fan (ha ha) of these universal fitting kind. I like something that fits properly, perhaps Mat at DMGRS might see an opportunity here :}

Good luck with those very rusty torx screws, ruined God knows how many bits in the past.

Regards

Hi Stan,

I agree with vitesse; repair what you've got if you can. Removing the motor end cap is not too difficult and Arctic has a pictorial guide. You'll then see straight away if any of the brushes are worn to minimum. A set of four* is about £20, at least a tenth of the price of the other two options you've mentioned. :o You could treat and paint the rusty casing; it won't affect the operation of the fan.

If you have a multimeter you could check that the control box is doing its job if you like. That would confirm that it's the brushes and not a wiring or PCB fault.

Err, yes, you definitely need a new condenser!

Simon

*P.S. Buy these only directly from Engineering Carbon Products Ltd. Avoid cheaper alternatives from eBay which will last five minutes.

Hi mate

Just stripped down my front end and replaced condenser and uprated 2 speed fan with resistor and did a coolant change ,it is also a good idea to clean washer bottle out mine was filthy the jets are a lot more powerful now and change intercooler rings

Hi simon ,
I'm off work tomorrow so will attempt to get those rusty screws out and have a look.

I have a multi meter so what would be the best way of checking the wiring.

Looking at the components I'm leaning towards the brushes or fan itself,.
Good job the wife brought me the sand blaster for Christmas :D

Stan

Almost forgot.....what is the round sensor that is attached to the power steering cooling pipes which round across the front of the car.

It's not the outside temperature one as that's still working

Stan

Heater Temperature Control - JWL000020 or Ambient temp sensor one and the same.

https://i.imgur.com/WXsmn28l.jpg1

Funny can’t remember seeing that sensor when I’ve done the fans, and I’ve done a few but all petrol models - is it a diesel thing?
Even more confused as to why the car needs two sensors, the outer temperature sensor and this heater sensor, or is the outer temperature sensor not used by the ACC system and just to display the outer temperature?

Need to understand as I’m currently looking for an outer temperature sensor for my daughter’s ZS180, the current temperature reading is 105c! Found a sensor in Spain, but no reply, this sensor is described as a ECC probe, or perhaps there are two sensors used on the ZS.

Confused

Yes Mike, it's for the fuel burning heater. :D

Simon

Thanks Simon, very few chip vans here and I've never worked on one.

Mike