Fuel pump relay or plenum?! Looks like rain...
 

I’ve just discovered water (not much tho) in the plenum area which may explain the cutting out issues I’ve had very recently. Jules shields in place but drain sort of blocked. I’ve taken the black plastic corrugated pipe from the jumble of cables that leads up to the ECU and dried them out. No sign of the water having got to the ECU thankfully as those cables immediately below the ECU were dry. Hoping that drying them out will suffice. I was blaming a faulty fuel relay up til that point! Same symptoms you see. :duh:

What symptoms are you suffering - would not thought a bit of water in the bottom of the plenum would cause any issues - do you see a tidemark or staining at the level of the ECU.:shrug:

Wet wires at the bottom but not near the ecu. Poss there’s a v slight split in one of the wire sleeves and let in water. Damp pollen filter in bottom 2 inches. Symptom was engine cutting out. Pulling over and trying ignition in pos 2 but no sound from either fuel pump. Both replaced this year. Wait s few mins then I can hear the fuel pump again. :shrug:

Not a diesel man but a car cutting out then starting after a while may be a failing crank sensor - if she cuts out again and you try and turn her over see if the rev counter flickers - if it stays dead still it points to a failing crank sensor. They fail characteristically when the engine gets hot - once cooled down the sensor starts working and the car will start.:shrug: If the ECM stops receiving a signal from the crank sensor it will cut the fuel pump.

We had literally gone a mile up the road and it cut out so engine was cold. Thankful it doesn’t look like the crank sensor! :}

Hi Richard, it doesn't take a lot of water to get into the ecu to cause havoc, and if your pollen filter has been wet, then the ecu will have been too.


The free surface effect of the water in the plenum means that when cornering right, all of the water sloshes to the left.


I found on my own car there was a diagonal tide mark on the casing of the ecu, and one of the screws in the casing was rusty.


When my car didn't start, the oil pressure warning lamp on the dashboard didn't come on, and the fuel pump didn't prime.


Fortunately the local to me MG specialist garage in Blaydon was able to sort this out for me, as the part alone from Rimmer Bros at the time was over £400 :eek:


It needs to have the ecu taken out of it's plastic holder, and the two halves of the casing unscrewed to check if there is water still in there.


John at MGR MOT and Auto service in Blaydon is very reasonably priced, and can repair your ecu at a fraction of the price of Rimmers, and I'd be happy to recommend him at the drop of a hat !!


If you want his details, I'll happily send them to you via PM.


Hope this helps


Alf

If you think you need a new Diesel ECU PM Big Russ a trader on here - firstly an expert T4 man and also a provider of re-programmed ECU's.

I may well, on Alf's advice, take the ecu apart to check if any water did indeed make it in there. Will post back on any findings!

Update
 

Well, sent off ecu to Russ and when put on his car there was no stalling. Took it apart and no obvious water damage!?! I opted to exchange it for another ecu anyway and since putting it back on the car, so far no stalling. Well, water or not, coincidence or not, the car works with an exchange ecu. Thank you very much Russ! :bowdown: And the 130 to 160 remap has been a pleasure too! Gosh, merry xmas! :}

Unfortunately it stalled today! :duh: This is after a weekend of some driving about with no issues and starting to relax!! I'll have to resort to disconnecting/reconnecting the leads underneath the engine bay fusebox to see if connectors are playing up. :shrug: