Slam Panel 2 Torx bolts/screws for fan cowling
 

On my facelift V6, I've got 2 rusted-in Torx bolts/screws on top of the slam panel that hold black plastic clips, (left and right), for the fan cowling. I've removed the heads but will need to drill out (and retap?).

Grateful if I can get confirmation of the size of these bolts/screws in order to drill out/extract.:bowdown:

(Rimmers have them as part FYP 101200 but don't give the size). Is there a better stainless fastener for refitting?

Sorry don't know the size but...

Good luck, you're going to need it if attempting to drill those torx, and yes I've tried. Too late for you, but I've found it necessary on a couple of occasions to cut a large channel in the head with an angle grinder for a flat screwdriver, believe the heat generated helps (but kills the plastic shroud).

Regards


Regards

Thanks for advice/commiseration!

I've cut slots, (still did not budge), and then removed the heads of the bolts/screws and just managed to save the plastic cover/clips. But there is no room to engage mole grips on very short stub of bolt screw so reckoned I would be drilling out next but not enough knowledge on the size of drill-out/extractor to use.:o

Took one out and measured it - M6 x 1.0

One other way I've managed to remove these is by welding (MIG). If you have a welder then a piece of flat bar with a drilled hole to match the Torx one, should move it. Wet the plastic first and weld the Torx end to the bar. Heat does marvellous things.

Good luck

Great info. Many thanks for that! :}

Just encountered this problem today whilst removing the slam panel to replace bonnet release cables and strip/clean/lubricate the catches, one radiator top mounting bolt came out, the other wouldn't budge, even with quality torx bit and six inch 1/4" drive breaker bar.
I managed to wiggle the top mount bracket off of the rubber mount whilst lifting the slam panel to disengage it, on refitting i lightly lubricated it with 3in1 oil, refitted the slam panel then pulled up on the radiator whilst holding the eye of the plastic mount down with a screwdriver and the top mount slid into position easily.
Slightly more fiddly than undoing the torx bolt, but much easier than drilling it out!
Before refitting all the slam panel and bumper fixings I wire brushed any rusty threads and smeared copperslip on all threads to (hopefully) prevent any further corrosion.
Hope that helps, Paul.

Thanks Paul,

your description exactly mirrors what I am tryiing to do, so can appreciate (and commiserate) with the sequence of operations!:bowdown:

I was concerned to read this as I am also in the middle of slam panel removal to remove fan shroud to get access to the aircon condenser. I have just tried my torx screws. The right hand one looked ok and it came out after gentle back and forth tightening and untightening and a bit of penetrating oil. The left one looked a bit rusty and the torx head was not exactly snapping in nicely but I heard a healthy rust crack with gentle pressure and then after the same similar back and forth treatment it came out unscathed (unlike one of my headlight bolts which sheared off but at least I have three more fixings!). I then tried all the other bolts for the other attachments to the slam panel and they are all moving ok. Phew!:}

Due to accurately drilling the broken screw from above with an M6 tapping drill, 5mm, the long winded way would be to remove the slam panel and drill through the captive nut, or remove the captive nut and use a nut and bolt on assembly, there is enough space to balance a nut on your finger tip under the slam panel.


One other way, from above would be to drill a small hole about 3mm from the center of the stub, if you do and it goes through the nut, open out to 5mm, if not use a s/s self tapper with a nice s/s/ washer to hide the damage.


The torx screws aren't hard like a self tapper and will drill easily with a good quality sharp bit.


I ran a 1.5mm through one as a test a couple of mins ago.


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