Play in steering rack?
 

For some time now, after a long run and everything is hot, my 2002 cdt auto develops a slight knock somewhere in the steering. The best way to demonstrate it is with the car stationary and engine turned off when rocking the steering wheel left to right, something deep within the engine bay makes a knocking sound.

However no play is detectable in the steering at the road wheel end, and also even the slightest turn on the steering wheel produces movement at the wheels suggesting no play in the steering column.

When i do this test on my other car a 2001 cdt manual, there is no knock at all, but in the auto yes.

Do inner track rod ends give this symptom? Knock noise but no play?

The car passed its MOT a week ago, and i pointed it out to the tester who couldnt find even the slightest play in the steering.

Eastpete has just changed his inner tie rods because was still getting a knocking after changing just about everything else. I have a knock on mine as well and have also changed or checked the rest of the suspension. I don't have any play in mine when I rock the wheels, but I think I'll change mine next year.

The knock sound seems to come from the engine bay on the driver side, if i lean over while manipulating the steering wheel i can hear a metallic knock, but unfortunately my arms arent long enough to reach both the rack and the wheel at the same time.

Suspect there might be just a fraction of movement on the drivers side but its really hard to be sure.

Could be inner tie-rods, but I would not want to state this 100 per cent- every car is different. The job was not too difficult - I didn't take any pictures, but the procedure is basically as follows (I changed the outer track rod ends as well at the same time):

1. Loosen wheel bolts, jack up car, support on stands, remove front wheels and undertray.
2. On side you are working on, turn steering so gaiter bellows are long (I actually also undid the ARB bush bracket and drop link to move ARB out of the way, but this may not be essential). Crack the locknut on the inner tie-rod/outer track rod joint (22mm nut, 19mm spanner to hold flat on track rod end).
3. Remove nut on outer track end to hub steering arm joint, and crack joint with a ball joint splitter or hammering. Unscrew the outer track rod end from inner tie rod. Note how many threads are visible on the inner tie rod to locknut, so you can re-assemble with the tracking still roughly 'in'.
4. Pull rubber gaiter off end of steering rack - you might want to cut the metal band or plastic tie on inner part of gaiter to make this easier - the outer part of gaiter is held with a spring clip that can be removed with long-nosed pliers.
5. Now unscrew the inner tie rod from end of rack- I used a Stillson pipe wrench for this, and they came off quite easily. To fit the new ones, put a drop of Loctite on the thread and screw onto the rack - the new ones I bought had flats on them that took a 32mm spanner, so use that to tighten. Then replace gaiter (with new inner clip if necessary), refit outer track end (or new one) positioning the lock nut so the thread length is the same as before, to roughly maintain tracking.
6. The rest is a straight reversal of dismantling - best to get tracking re-done afterwards (mine was quite a long way out, as the car was pulling slightly to the right - it is now reset and the car runs beautifully in straight line, with no knocking).

Pete

Good to know it cured your knock. Might start preparing with parts and tools.

Before doing the inner tie rods, I would check the rack mounting bolts to the subframe are tight. Do you get the knocking at all when the car is in motion or the when the engine is switched on or off ?

I do not want you to go to the trouble of changing them and they make no difference !

Pete

Maybe worth your checking the front strut top bearing first! When worn, they can cause a twang on the spring, close to the straight ahead position of the steering, which can be felt at the steering wheel. Get someone to feel the spring, as the steering is rocked back and forth.

I have now checked the rack mounting bolts and they are tight. The knock does occassionally happen when on the move, but no real pattern to it, if anything it happens when i am slowing down and turning either direction over a bumpy surface.

I have now checked the rack mounting bolts and they are tight. The knock does occassionally happen when on the move, but no real pattern to it, if anything it happens when i am slowing down and turning either direction over a bumpy surface.

I'm with Harry - well worth checking the top mount bearings.