2003 MG ZT 2000D (M47R) Manual: Various issues and part number confirmation
 

Hello everyone.


I recently had to opportunity to purchase a 2003 Diesel ZT. I would have never imagined that I would be driving such a car as I would have said that smaller, sportier cars were more my style and the ZT looks quite executive. However I am really happy with the car and would like to return it to pristine condition.



I need to replace some parts that are rusting and I would feel more confident if someone with more experience would confirm that I have gone for the correct ones. I got some feedback from Rimmer bros but I would like an extra confirmation as I live in Malta and it would be a real hassle to return any incorrect parts.



My chassis no is SAR RJ XLH C3D282928


The first picture is taken looking into the bonnet from above. The part number I have is PEP000130.



https://i.ibb.co/Yy6XFkz/IMG-20191206-161642.jpg




The second picture is taken from under the car. It is the pipe exiting the radiator from the bottom right (facing the front of the car). Part numbers I have been given are PEP103190 and PEH101201.

https://i.ibb.co/2scc5ms/IMG-20191206-161819.jpg


I would also like any advice as to any other clips, etc that you would recommend replacing in the process.


Also, the bonnet gas struts don't always hold the bonnet open and have had a close shave a couple of times with my head almost getting knocked off! However I can't find a ZT part number on Rimmer.


The only key that I received had rust marks all around the battery and ciruit. I managed to clean it up and replace the battery. The LED on the key now lights up when I press the button but the key does not un/lock the car. Any ideas?


The radio control on the steering wheel does not work either.


The driver side window, lock and side-mirror controls were not working and I tried to clean the PCB as suggested by another thread on this site. Unfortunately that didn't work. I went to help a friend jump start his car and in the process my battery was disconnected. Oh what a happy surprise I had when upon reconnecting my battery, the window controls started working again!


Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Best regards.

Hi Ian.
Yes those are the correct parts which you have linked too, but to honest both those steel pipes are quite thick & robust I doubt you need to replace them, what you may need to do is rub them down treat them and spray black all in situ.

I have two of the first pipe in the shed and they have been there for years now, doubt they will ever get used one used & one new.

https://i.imgur.com/ntjidkxl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/f66dQVql.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/jDAPf5Jl.jpg3

it will most likely only be surface rust, so double check before spending a huge amount of money on these parts. ;)

Regarding your key drop MarinaBrian and or Jamie a PM I am sure both would be able to help with your key problem.

Hi Arctic,


thanks for getting back to me. My car is slowly losing coolant and my mechanic recommended replacing those pipes as when he saw how rusted they were he assumed that they were the cause of the leak. Could it be that it's just the hoses that need replacing?

Check the thermostat for coolant loss, the common cause is the O ring that fits on the metal pipe that enters the thermostat.

Hi Ian.
Also get you mechanic to check the Y connection onto the head, they go brittle and can leak, how mush coolant are you losing? are the coolant cap O-rings ok, how much is in the coolant tank.
https://i.imgur.com/HCiOczul.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/SkxyOrBl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/PhqzdqGl.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/5LBOVp7l.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/acPZPcml.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/XZSGUQZl.jpg6

coolant level, do not over fill as you will get no expansion, and lose coolant through the cap.
https://i.imgur.com/pvCdIGCl.jpg7

https://i.imgur.com/FNwNhjBl.jpg8

check the O-rings on the cap are not flat, if so replace
https://i.imgur.com/zRe2Bpdl.jpg9

https://i.imgur.com/CAuuqnUl.jpg10

I would suspect these above more so than the metal pipes you have concern for.

Hi Trikey,


I'll do that, thanks. I suspect that I might also have the thermostat issue that I've read about on here as the temperature gauge rarely budges. I.E. the needle remains pointing down even after a relatively long drive (for Malta). However, sometimes, if I'm stuck in some traffic, it would go up to the 9 o'clock level, which I expect to be the normal operating temperature that should be reached a few minutes after starting up. I was afraid that the temperature rising might be due to coolant loss but it never rose above the 9 o'clock mark. So I'm not sure whether the thermostat is a little jammed, but loosens up after driving on some of our bumpy roads, or whether it is normal for the car to run so cool (which I doubt, but I'm hardly an expert).

Wow, thanks so much for the photos, they really help to understand more clearly. I top up the coolant every week or two depending on how much I've used the car. I mostly use it for the school run which is just a couple of km, but when I drive longer distances I keep a closer eye on the coolant level. I'd say that when I top up, I add between a quarter and a half litre.


Since the pipe in my second photo looks kind of wet, I thought that that's where the leak was occurring. As for the first pipe, I think that my mechanic wanted to replace it more as a preventative measure considering that it looks really rusty, with bubbling and all. But I shall try to sand it down and treat and paint it as you suggested.



I shall check the cap o-rings and shall also ask my mechanic to check the y connection. You say that they go brittle. Does this mean that they would need to be replaced or is it a serviceable part?


Thanks again for your time. I had read a few articles on here before and after I bought the car and

admired the sense of community. Now I'm getting to experience it for myself! :)

HI Ian.
Yes ask him to check for red any sort of deposit around the Y to head housing, they are available and are not to costly
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-h...0l-p-8085.html

Regarding the original thermostat they do not usually stick closed, what they do is start opening to early thus not allowing the engine to get up to temperature, if you find that there is no leak around the original thermostat, you can add an inline stat easier to fit, and less costly £20 for the item maybe then you have your labour to fit 30 minutes at most.

If you do add the inline stat go for a gates one, they are the best in my opinion.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermosta...cfd5863eb75c1e

Ok, another item for my checklist. Thanks.


Would you mind checking out my reply to Trikey to see whether my situation describes a typical thermostat issue?

Hi Ian.
I have touched upon it in the above thread, about an inline stat, and the fact the originals start failing ie open earlier than they should, I have never heard of one that as failed closed, so I doubt the thermostat would be the reason of coolant loss other than it could be leaking as per Andy's suggestion.

Start with the easy parts to check and go rom there, the cap O-rings, the amount in the header tank, visual checks of the hoses, take the car for a good run while you have the OBD set.

To set the true temperature of the engine set OBD to 19 then to sub section 7 you can find how these work on this great link below from ( Cyrano )T-Cut.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=183137

Also another good thread from the same man, its all on here don't you worry, always worth subscribing so you cab access all of the club forums/threads ;)
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=245253