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-   -   Rover 75 CDTi Tourer 2004 coolant (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=301367)

JohnnyBG 8th December 2019 18:58

Rover 75 CDTi Tourer 2004 coolant
 
Well, shortly after the MoT that followed the £1k plus of work to get the Rover on the road again, the water pump packed up.


At the time I didn't have undercover access and got the garage that's been doing cars for me for 30 plus years to do the job. They had a supplier problem when the supplied pump and thermostat housing didn't match but all good re-supplied and fitted. Kept an eye on the coolant in case of airlocks and couple of top ups, small quantities and all good. Only 200 miles or so done and I did the HPFP, hydramount and nearside wheel bearing so in total only about 350/400 miles since the water pump.


This morning, the coolant was down. Half a small coke bottle(!) so probably that's only 0.25 of a litre. Nothing creamy on disptick or smelly at the filler.


Warming up at about the speed you'd expect and after left idling for 30 minutes nice and steady at 9 0'clock on the dial, which is where it sits all the time. Idles at about 600rpm and steady as a rock. Nothing out of the exhaust (of any description, runs really clean).



I've a lot of miles to do over the Christmas break, Leominster and Scotland, and it's easy to get nervous. I'm thinking of a new cap for the expansion tank.


JohnnyBG


PS changing the gearbox oil very soon, just got MTF94 from Smith & Allan at Darlington, £14 summat for 5 litres). 8mm allen key to get.

T-Cut 8th December 2019 19:12

There's either a leak or it wasn't refilled correctly. I'll assume you've checked for leaks. After a pump replacement job, a drop in coolant level over a few hundred miles driving is most likely to be due to trapped air. This slowly vents into the header as it circulates and is due to poor bleeding technique during the refill. That Haynes manual you have on the shelf tells you how to do it correctly. You do have a Haynes? If not you'll be given it here shortly.



TC

macafee2 8th December 2019 19:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyBG (Post 2780474)
Well, shortly after the MoT that followed the £1k plus of work to get the Rover on the road again, the water pump packed up.


At the time I didn't have undercover access and got the garage that's been doing cars for me for 30 plus years to do the job. They had a supplier problem when the supplied pump and thermostat housing didn't match but all good re-supplied and fitted. Kept an eye on the coolant in case of airlocks and couple of top ups, small quantities and all good. Only 200 miles or so done and I did the HPFP, hydramount and nearside wheel bearing so in total only about 350/400 miles since the water pump.


This morning, the coolant was down. Half a small coke bottle(!) so probably that's only 0.25 of a litre. Nothing creamy on disptick or smelly at the filler.


Warming up at about the speed you'd expect and after left idling for 30 minutes nice and steady at 9 0'clock on the dial, which is where it sits all the time. Idles at about 600rpm and steady as a rock. Nothing out of the exhaust (of any description, runs really clean).



I've a lot of miles to do over the Christmas break, Leominster and Scotland, and it's easy to get nervous. I'm thinking of a new cap for the expansion tank.


JohnnyBG


PS changing the gearbox oil very soon, just got MTF94 from Smith & Allan at Darlington, £14 summat for 5 litres). 8mm allen key to get.


I cant recall, is it an allan or a torx?
a funnel, a long length of tube and an assistant helps to make this job easy

macafee2

macafee2

Mike Noc 8th December 2019 19:22

As TC says could be due to any trapped air bleeding itself out of the system.

Apart from the water pump, thermostat and coolant pipe O ring, the other common leak point is the connection from the radiator top hose to the cylinder head.

Keep an eye on it and if the level is still going down and you can't see where from then maybe a cold pressure test will show the leak.

JohnnyBG 8th December 2019 19:38

Thanks a lot for those points. That top hose could be a point, I had to jack the engine up a long way to do the other work and wonder if there might've been a bit of strain there.


The only "water" I had dropping was from the split hydramount, glucol is the sweet stuff?



One always hopes for the best and it's just been some trapped air. I don't think it was bleed, just left to run without the cap on!


Yes, I got the Haynes some time ago. If it's fine next Tuesday/Wednesday I'll pop the vanity cover off and try and nip up what I now realise is the clutch slave bleed pipe and take a look at that top hose where the connection to the head is?


JohnnyBG

Arctic 8th December 2019 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyBG (Post 2780489)
Thanks a lot for those points. That top hose could be a point, I had to jack the engine up a long way to do the other work and wonder if there might've been a bit of strain there.


The only "water" I had dropping was from the split hydramount, glucol is the sweet stuff?



One always hopes for the best and it's just been some trapped air. I don't think it was bleed, just left to run without the cap on!


Yes, I got the Haynes some time ago. If it's fine next Tuesday/Wednesday I'll pop the vanity cover off and try and nip up what I now realise is the clutch slave bleed pipe and
Quote:

take a look at that top hose where the connection to the head is?


JohnnyBG

Hi John.
To view the Y connection to the head which if faulty & leaking, most of the time its the seal but the Y connection its self gets brittle over time and starts to crumble.

You will need to remove the manifold to get a proper view of said connection photo's below.

https://i.imgur.com/sTXvUBVl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/ypGe1btl.jpg2

This was one of the worst I saw.
https://i.imgur.com/acPZPcml.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/XZSGUQZl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/I9Cewxyl.jpg5

Some just ned the seal changing.
https://i.imgur.com/cqOXS7cl.jpg6

New units cost about £20.00
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-h...0l-p-8085.html
https://i.imgur.com/v0m1j08l.jpg7

JohnnyBG 11th December 2019 14:25

Well, Artic, unfortunately not that housing.


It turns out it's the thermostat housing on the new water pump that I had fitted not more than 500 miles ago. There was a problem at the time as the thermostat housing that was supplied had different stud / bolt holes to the pump. It was returned and the one on now looks new. There was talk of not being able to get the right part but Rimmers, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001740 , seem to have it .


Garage taking it back in on Monday and I trust them but it could start to be awkward if I'm expected to pay for something that they did / couldn't fix properly at the time.


It looks like tricky to get to.


Wife's going to kill me.


JohnnyBG

Mike Noc 11th December 2019 15:45

The pattern thermostat housings aren't that strong, and despite the steel inserts around the holes, they can crack if overtightened.


IIRC the book setting is 8Nm which isn't much more than a nip.

JohnnyBG 11th December 2019 19:54

Yeah, I'm a convert to use of torque wrenches but perhaps there was some old school approach.


JohnnyBG

JohnnyBG 14th December 2019 14:06

Follow up, my garage will be looking at this on Monday morning and I'll be off to work in the SEAT Alhambra with the dodgy clutch.

They seem to think that parts are not available to seal up the thermo housing. I know there was a problem with the first housing that was supplied not fitting the pump and I don't know the details to this but the housing that's on looks new.

I don't know if they fitted a Rover or aftermarket pump. On Rimmers all the parts are listed as in stock; housing, seal, "O" ring for the pipe. I know that they use Europarts, haven't been on the Europarts site yet.


EDIT - Europarts only list the Circoli (?) pump and housing and the housing (complete with thermostat) is out of stock.


Has anyone else had a problem with this and where were parts sourced from to keep the car on the road? The book suggests that all the stuff I just refitted after replacing the HPFP and the hydramount have to come back off to work on the thermostat housing! Thing is, I would've fixed this myself when it was all apart had I known it was going to fail within 500 miles of new pump and housing.

Just to be clear, I'm sure that the garage will give me a fair crack and they're not only experienced but honest.

EDIT - Haynes refer to the torque as 9Nm for thermo housing to water pump; I bought a natty little 3/8" drive torque wrench for these low value torque settings.



Advice welcome.


JohnnyBG


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