Anti roll bar won't go on (rear) - help asap please
 

Can the ARB be fitted with no weight on the rear suspension?

I've loosely bolted the bar & U brackets to the car, and the droplinks to the upper arm brackets - and the holes at the ends of the bar will not reach the studs on the bottom end of the droplinks (they're about 1.5 inches apart). They might reach if the upper arm was moved up to its normal ride height (or they might not).

I've got the bar this way round - long straight on the LH, short straight on the RH.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...56cd473f2d.jpg


Here's Rimmers diagram for reference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001546

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...5620396048.jpg

I left my bolts lose so I could slide the anti roll bar left and right so I could get the drop links in. Leaving it lose I'm sure also allows it to swing down/up. I cant recall but I dont think I had my wheels on the ground when I assembled the anti roll bar but did when it came to tightening and torqueing up. Drop links are handed by the way but I don't think you can fit them the wrong way round. Short straight is to the off side.

Were there problems with upper arms and the posts for the drop links being in the wrong place?

macafee2

That's what I've done - everything is loose and the bar swings up/down easily.

If I swing the bar up, the stud hole is not directly below the droplink mount on the upper arm - it's approx. 1.5" too far away to the rear. I'd need to take a pic to describe the problem better than that.

Yes, I know the droplinks are handed. I've tried them both on the LH and only one is anywhere near correct (the other points in the wrong direction). I've also compared them to the old ones on the old bar.

Yes (and no). The drain holes on the upper arms are too close to the edge of the spring cup. The isolators have to be modified so the cutouts line up with the holes. I'll try and find the thread on it.

Here it is - https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...=300184&page=2

Post 14 onwards.

Here we are.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...57cb0f2bb8.jpg

You can see that the ARB is touching the upper arm, preventing it from swinging up towards the droplink stud. And that's with the U bracket bolts nowhere near done up (there's still thread showing between the subframe and the U bracket).

If the upper arm was moved upwards, the hole in the ARB would be able to get closer to the stud - but I'm not sure it would be enough to close the gap completely. :shrug:

Position of droplink bolt hole on upper arm
 

Pic below - new arm and old arm side by side.

I didn't actually measure them (should have) but I think distances A and B are the same on the new arm as they are on the old arm. In other words, the droplink bolt hole has not moved to the left or the right. If it had done, the end of the roll bar would definitely fail to line up with the droplink.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...581f0b9775.jpg

Yes they're in the same place relative, I've been down this road before :cool:

Wait until the weight of the car is on it's wheel before refitting the drop links to the arb

Ok, thanks Brian. I'll wait until the weight is on the wheels (can't do much else anyway).

Btw, the only other thing is this roll bar is the uprated version RGB101062UR from Rimmers. I think it's fatter (23mm?) than the old one but otherwise the same shape and length etc. Rimmers' invoice has the numbers RGB101062UR and RGB000081. The web page says RGB000081 is the bar for the ZT. I asked Rimmers about it and they said it was ok for the 75. Very confusing!

Off to fit the backplates & hubs now. :}

Jack up the hubs whilst the car is still supported.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

combining with clf's reply, would just fitting the damper be enough?
Sorry I did not realise the damper was not fitted in my previous reply.
Do put the car on 4 wheels before torqueing up the bolts etc

macafee2