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-   -   Cutting out diesel 75 (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=14310)

catto 17th January 2008 16:37

Cutting out diesel 75
 
Hi, just wondered if anyone has had a problem with a diesel 75 cutting out. We are trying to get a problem sorted out with ours with not much success, it has been on a t4 diagnostic machine and it came up with intermittant fault on cam sensor this has now been changed and the problem is the same, the car will cut out for no reason and will do it when idling and driving the check engine light comes on when this happens, have since found out that the previous owner had it into the rover agent for the same problem and they changed out the fuel pumps, disconnected the instrument panel and left to sit overnight, but the problem returned, it started cutting out about a month ago and then it ran normally for about 2 weeks has now started the same symptoms again can anyone suggest anything we could try getting desperate as you really cant trust the car cos it will cut out dead even at fast speeds sometimes it starts right away sometimes it has to sit for a while before it restarts also when it cuts out there is a clicking noise comes from under the dash at the pass side. Thanks

Roverron 17th January 2008 16:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by catto (Post 131571)
Hi, just wondered if anyone has had a problem with a diesel 75 cutting out. We are trying to get a problem sorted out with ours with not much success, it has been on a t4 diagnostic machine and it came up with intermittant fault on cam sensor this has now been changed and the problem is the same, the car will cut out for no reason and will do it when idling and driving the check engine light comes on when this happens, have since found out that the previous owner had it into the rover agent for the same problem and they changed out the fuel pumps, disconnected the instrument panel and left to sit overnight, but the problem returned, it started cutting out about a month ago and then it ran normally for about 2 weeks has now started the same symptoms again can anyone suggest anything we could try getting desperate as you really cant trust the car cos it will cut out dead even at fast speeds sometimes it starts right away sometimes it has to sit for a while before it restarts also when it cuts out there is a clicking noise comes from under the dash at the pass side. Thanks

Check the alternator and battery. Try another battery. Check the battery cables and earth leads for security and corrosion.

Unplug and reconnect the ecu and check for signs of water ingress 7 corroded contacts.

Check all the other sensors' wiring.

Disconnect the fuel burning heater multi plug.

Disconnect the maf sensor and leave unplugged for a few days.

Ron

catto 17th January 2008 17:04

Thanks for your reply but could you tell me where the maf sensor is please also the car starts no problem but about 2 weeks ago it had a flat battery for no apparent reason and it has been fine since could this be something to do with the problem

JohnDotCom 17th January 2008 17:12

Do you Have Hi Line sat nav?
If this goes faulty it can drain your Battery.
I would change the Battery if it starts going Flat as so many Electrical Gremlins are caused by a Duff one.
I would have thought Cam Sensor, but you say that has been Changed?
Also of course make sure there is no Water in the Plenum Chambers as this could cause your ECU to die!
The MAF sensor is located under the Engine cover top left as you look from front of Car.
I can unplug without removing top cover (there is 2 Bolts at rear out of view deeper down also to remove) you should see the Plug into the Top of it.
Search MAF sensor as I am not sure if there is any location Pictures on Forums, but thought there would be with the number of problems it causes.

catto 17th January 2008 17:23

We dont have a sat nav. The plenum chamber has been checked also the wiring there has been checked for corrosion nothing found. The rover dealer suggested the next step is to change the ecu but as I have had several bills so far for changing and checking parts that doesnt make any difference I am a bit loathe to go down that route.

JohnDotCom 17th January 2008 17:33

You don't just change the ECU to see if it clears Faults thats nuts and will cost you close to a Grand anyway!!
Have you got a Print out of Faults logged on T4 (I take it this IS what they used and not a Generic Tester?)
Several things can Cause the Engine Light to Come on, the MAF being one of them, and till the Fault code is normally cleared stays there if I remember Correctly.
Another Fault that occurs on Diesels is the (oh god I've forgot the Name!) the Part above the Under Bonnet Fuel Filter next to battery case, its Black in Colour and has two entries and two exits, some of them are Fuel others electrical Connection, firstly ensure the Plugs are in Correctly, this has had to be changed on Mine as a Code was logged for this, that is why you do need the Codes to assist, as we could just keep on Changing bits to Kingdom Come, the Fault has to be Found.
Has the CAM Sensor definitely been Changed?

catto 17th January 2008 17:45

The cam sensor has definately been changed. The receipt I received from the garage was stated as:
Following codes stored
Intermitant fault cam sensor
Intemitant can bus fault dmer-ems ecu
intermitant fault instument pack not received A D
MER4 Message
Fuse 1 checked found to be ok
all fault codes cleared
checked wiring at bulk head found to be ok
Dont really know what all this means bit like double dutch. Someone has suggested that it could be the module in the tank as it has a saddle pipe going from one side to the other but would that put on the check engine light?
Thanks

Roverron 17th January 2008 18:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by catto (Post 131600)
The cam sensor has definately been changed. The receipt I received from the garage was stated as:
Following codes stored
Intermitant fault cam sensor
Intemitant can bus fault dmer-ems ecu
intermitant fault instument pack not received A D
MER4 Message
Fuse 1 checked found to be ok
all fault codes cleared
checked wiring at bulk head found to be ok
Dont really know what all this means bit like double dutch. Someone has suggested that it could be the module in the tank as it has a saddle pipe going from one side to the other but would that put on the check engine light?
Thanks


Can bus errors are a common sign of water having entered the ecu.
I would remove it and open it to check for this. Don't let the dealer do it.

Check that the alternator is not chucking out too high a voltage - this has been known or is under charging the battery. There should be 13.8 to 14.4v at the battery terminals with the engine running. Switch on the headlights and rear screen heater and see if the voltage drops. It shouldn't.

Ron

JohnDotCom 17th January 2008 18:27

Catto, one of the reasons we ask Members to fill in their profile is so Members Know your Full Car Details and your location in Country.
Many Members help each other if available and in Vicinity.
Where abouts are you located?

I also assume Fuel Pumps have been Checked?
I still think ECU needs looking at by you, not Garage as Ron says above, also see if Pollen filter is wet or discoloured by water.

catto 17th January 2008 19:03

The car is a Rover 75 2.0 Diesel saloon. We are located just south of Aberdeen, the main Rover Dealer is Evans Halshaw but we put it to a small rover specialist it was definately a T4 machine it was on as I double checked they had that machine before I booked it in, if it looks as if water has been in the area of the ecu does this mean it has to be changed with a new one as the dealer said you cant use second hand because it is coded.


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