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Yes V6 thermostat housing is a sealed one, but the Diesel as an open housing so the thermostat should be able to be exchanged, weather it is cost effective to do that ivwould not know, wonder who will be first to try :} |
diesel Thermostat
I removed an original diesel thermostat from its housing several times during my experiments and there is no problem with refitting it although it does require a fair bit of pressure to do so.
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do develop a leak sometimes as reported on this site but I do not know if that is due to a faulty rubber seal or the O ring around the feed pipe. The thermostat itself is a special type and will not work unless it is fitted into the housing because it does not have the normal 'bridge' against which the piston pushes in order to open. The bridge on the original item is the actual plastic housing so it only works as a complete assembly. |
I've seen a couple of leaks due to deteriorated seals in the original housings, so given the amount of time it takes to replace the thermostat I'd fit a new housing as well, or at the very least a new seal, if these can be obtained separately, and a new O ring for the pipe.
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The only way to replace the stat, is either a complete unit - housing and stat, or if just the stat has simply begun to open early, fit a top hose stat mod. |
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TC |
PBM100040 is a different thermostat to the item fitted to our cars - the insert in PEL100570 is a different shape, although they are similar.
Early reports of the 'V3' item I have are good, although it'll be years before we know for sure. They're a lot cheaper than the OEM item though. PEL100570 - 'V3' I'll grab a picture of PBM100040 and PEL100570 inserts together to show the difference. :) |
I have just taken a closer look at the thermostat I have in front of me and you can definitely remove the thermostat insert by twisting it out, so it should be able to be replaced.
Thermostat pushed/squashed down and held in with the aid of the clip on the housing Fig 1 http://i62.tinypic.com/2hz2wkx.jpg1 The housing as these fixing points both sides Fig 2 http://i60.tinypic.com/adgqz5.jpg2 Where the O-ring would fit Fig 3 http://i58.tinypic.com/30blkxe.jpg3 Internal fixing for the thermostat Fig 4 http://i57.tinypic.com/2s81xt3.jpg4 Hole in the thermostat Fig 5 http://i58.tinypic.com/seq446.jpg5 Last the housing rubber gasket Fig 6 http://i58.tinypic.com/21c5jzo.jpg6 As you can see these fit both the R75 FL 1 and the Rover city http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4005223256...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I was wondering if this would fit below 92c I will find out by purchasing one next week ;) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-C...99328255?rt=nc The PMB100040 looks to be the same to me as the one in the hosing above http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=PBM100040 |
The only critical part is the wax bulb ....
Lot of cogitations about it ...3 years ago: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ght=Thermostat Mike |
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Is necessary to open a small hole in the inline thermostat? Regards, FB |
Hi fbzr,
the answer is "no" If you do the engine will not reach the required temperature. Pete. |
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TC |
No hole required
We've fitted many of these stats with no issues (other than we don't fit them to cars which are likely to tow a caravan due to the fact the inline stat is 30% smaller than OEM) In certain circumstances the extra maximum flow of the OEM is required when towing up hill on a very hot day for example! Without the bleed hole the system won't fully self bleed until the first warm up trip has been completed. You might see the temp rise once to 105deg C but once the air pockets from the top hose have pumped back into the header tank everything will be fine after that. Don't forget to pressure check to 10 PSI or check for leaks after the first few trips. ;) |
Thanks for the answers ...and excellent modification...and explanation :bowdown:
The hole was even the bleeding of air pockets ... nothing else ... With the inline stat the temp gauge keeps in 9 o'clock or moves between 8 and 9 o'clock? Regards, FB |
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TC |
...one more diesel with inline stat :D
Installation: Stainless band cut (dremel) http://i59.tinypic.com/oumlh0.jpg The inline stat (Vernet 89°C) http://i57.tinypic.com/fb03g4.jpg Let's go! http://i57.tinypic.com/1z20qbr.jpg With fairy detergent, hot water, steel pipe (great help) and a lot of strength ...stat slid ... http://i58.tinypic.com/wanifa.jpg Within 5 cm... http://i58.tinypic.com/2428sjl.jpg Done! The second clamp is for the stat does not slide http://i59.tinypic.com/2gsil2o.jpg The result was the first 40 miles temperature was maintained between 84-89ºC. One question, someone has already withdrawn the stat to replace it? It should be a very hard work too. Regard, FB |
Oh dear No need to push it in that far or remove the hose!
The copper wax bulb needs to be as close to engine block as possible fot accurate temperature detection. With the correct rubber lubricant (synthetic based not fairy liquid) they can be removed. We just removed an inline stat today because a new water pump was being fitted and while dismantled we recommended for not much extra a new OEM stat could be fitted. Owner said yes please so the deed was done. :) |
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...The copper wax bulb is 10mm inside the plastic inion :shrug: ...When I have to replace the water pump stat inline will leave too ;) Regard, FB |
If you are going to remove the old thermostat housing and fit it to the new water pump check the seal - they have a habit of leaking along with the O ring for the pipe. ;)
Personally I'd fit a new 'stat, but each to their own. :D |
I see there's a huge thread on this subject! My 2003 CDT's temperature never reaches the 9 o'clock position and fluctuates considerably wile driving. As far as I can see from here it needs a new thermostat. Is that the only possible cause, or does anything else need investigating as well?
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You can see the actual temp via the on board diagnostic. |
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Wow, those were really quick replies! :bowdown:
I'll look up how to run the on-board display and check it out - many thanks to you both. :} |
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And a video here ;) http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=185808
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Thanks for the guide, it's easy when you know how! I ran the diagnostics and gave the car a quick run up the motorway for a few miles. The temperature stayed in the low 60s most of the time, with 67 the highest. That's a lot lower than it should be, so I'm guessing that confirms the thermostat not working properly.
On the plus side I checked the plenum drain and everything is nice and dry, and I gave my cloudy headlights a good rub-down and polish - still not perfect but definitely improved. I see there's a system here for thanking other posters, but I can't work out how to use it... :duh: |
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I have recently changed my thermostat out as I had to do the water pump and it's a bit of a pig of a job to be honest even using the excellent guidance on here. Being ambidextrous and a contortionist would be a huge bonus but for us lesser mortals the key is ensuring that your trolley jack can give enough lift when raising the engine so you can get to the bolts easy enough. Also having an E8 torx spanner comes in very handy if you don't have the lift and can't get enough room for sockets. If it's just the thermostat at fault then if I were you I would just do the in-line mod for the same result needed. |
Unfortunately I don't have the facilities for doing any real work myself, so I'd have to get a garage to do it. As I only bought the car recently I want to get a good service booked in, so my plan is to get the thermostat done at the same time. My local garage is pretty good, but can anyone recommend a Rover specialist near to Southampton?
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I did mine in the front street lol...I wish I wasn't so stubborn and refuse to pay garage costs and I had just got my car recovered to a garage and let them do it as they wouldn't have had to worry if it was going to rain or whatever and they would've done it in no time on a lift with the proper tools etc...next big job is definitely getting done in a garage lol.
I'm sure someone else will be along soon enough to advise you of a specialist garage in the Southampton area... |
You're obviously less cack-handed than I am Lee! I've never been very good at DIY mechanics, even when I was running "basic" cars like my old Wolseley 1500.
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Well the thermostat is now fixed and my temperature gauge is sitting nicely at 9 o'clock. :D
I had it done at MG Rover World in Shedfield, which I found mentioned on an old thread here. Very pleased with the work carried out, which included a service, and there was the added bonus of a Rover 75 courtesy car. It was a 1.8 - not having driven a petrol one before it made my diesel feel a little agricultural in comparison! On the downside, I've managed to pick up a nail in one of my tyres. Luckily the car has a "proper" spare, with an unused tyre, but as it's steel it doesn't match the other wheels very well... :duh: |
Which reminds me. Has anyone got an update on the performance of the 'Mk3' stat from DMGRS?
Maybe it's not been in use long enough yet, but it would be interesting to compare the longevity of Mk1, 2 and 3. As far as I'm aware, the Mk1s are still going strong though maybe few in number(?). The Mk2s are the reason for this 140 page thread and the Mk3s are hopefully an OEM style permanent fix. TC |
Just to make this thread a little longer ....... having read the first 'umpteen' pages of it and then skipping to the last dozen pages, to save me traipsing through the other 99 pages I wonder if someone could answer a question for me please?
.....if I was to buy an in-line (aluminium?) thermostat housing as seen on eBay from Specialist Components can anybody advise on whether I would need a small hole in the thermostat or not? :confused: Barry. |
Hi BadgeStar,
definitely not. No hole required Pete. |
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Still working well on the 4 we fitted to test. :) |
I can certainly recommend the inline housing. It is a very high quality unit. Mine has been fitted since the early days of this thread and continues to work perfectly.
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I've had my Diesel Thermostat Fitted for about a year now from DMGRS and very pleased with it on my 2004 CTDI Tourer.
It was really good in the summer and now with the cold mornings and nights I could not fault it.My Tourer runs at the temp it should. I'm pleased I did not go with the in line, but that's just me. Each to there own. |
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TC |
Do not drill a hole.
The system is self bleeding once the stat opens for the first time. ie You may see the temp rise to 110C once after refil then a sudden drop to 88C |
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As a more aged member, I recall that when I had classic cars in the 1970's /80's some of them had black leather radiator muffs fitted, which greatly helped in reducing cold air flow when driving off in the winter with an ice cold engine. Also London Transport even used a sliding steel panel on the RT Type double decker bus that could be risen in cold weather to reduce air flow, as the 1939 AEC engine was also thermally efficient, so there you have it folks, 2 vehicles 60 years difference and technicnically streets apart but one common souoution , Stick a muff on the front, I have and it works a treat!!! :cool::} ;) |
A radiator blind may help the running temp in certain circumstances but it won't make any difference to the warm up time because there is no coolant flow through the rad during this phase until the stat starts to open.
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Thanks for your reply Jules, I will let you play around with my car when I come up to see you later in the year!
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Barry. |
I cut pieces of corrugated plastic sheet (the type you get pinned to the garden wall advertising the builder when you have had new windows or similar) to shape. These just slot in nicely behind the radiator grille to form an invisible radiator muff, admittedly only covering half the radiator. I used it during the very cold winters we had a few years ago and felt that it did help to keep the engine warm when the heater was running, but it might have been wishful thinking!
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by allowing more or less coolant through the radiator ...:shrug: |
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Paul |
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