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-   -   Exhaust pipe cutter (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=299439)

Blink 23rd September 2019 08:55

Exhaust pipe cutter
 
Anyone know of an exhaust pipe cutter that works and doesn't cost a fortune?

I've got a new system to go on (centre section & back box) so I might as well cut the old one somewhere in front of the rear subframe, which I'm in the process of changing. Getting the old subframe off and the new one on will be much easier with no exhaust in the way.

The cheapest exhaust cutters seem to be the chain syle ones - but are they any good? Here's an example - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/38308218759...iABEgIIQ_D_BwE

Mark Murphy 23rd September 2019 09:14

Hacksaw? Grinder?

Mark Murphy 23rd September 2019 09:15

https://progressiveparts.com/hand-ch...xoCwVcQAvD_BwE

Blink 23rd September 2019 09:28

Hacksaw is the cheapest but the hardest work (not good when on your back underneath a car).

Grinder is possibly less controllable for a square cut.

Chain type cutter (your post 3) - does it have to be rotated through 360 degrees around the pipe? (might not have the clearance since the old one is on the car).

Reciprocating saw?

Sealey VS16371 - too expensive.

chris75 23rd September 2019 14:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink (Post 2763922)
Chain type cutter (your post 3) - does it have to be rotated through 360 degrees around the pipe? (might not have the clearance since the old one is on the car).

It says in the blurb "only 1/4 turn for a complete cut " :shrug:

T-Cut 23rd September 2019 18:10

The chain type cutters have a series of small hard cutting wheels at each link. So, when the chain is held tightly around the pipe and turned back and forth, the wheels cut into the pipe in short sections, so adding up to full circle. You get a perfect cut with little effort.


TC

clf 23rd September 2019 19:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink (Post 2763922)
Hacksaw is the cheapest but the hardest work (not good when on your back underneath a car).

Grinder is possibly less controllable for a square cut.

Chain type cutter (your post 3) - does it have to be rotated through 360 degrees around the pipe? (might not have the clearance since the old one is on the car).

Reciprocating saw?

Sealey VS16371 - too expensive.

Do it whilst it is on the ground.

Drop it to floor and pull it to the left side of the car. Remove the sub frame etc. Then cut the exhaust whilst you have the space to sit at it. Refit the suspension, being careful not to get cut by the exhaust pipe, then fit the exhaust.



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MissMoppet 23rd September 2019 20:42

Put a wee note "new cat just fitted" and judging by recent posts someone will soon be along to cut it off in no time at all.

Blink 24th September 2019 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75 (Post 2764001)
It says in the blurb "only 1/4 turn for a complete cut " :shrug:

So it does. I didn't spot that before!

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut (Post 2764039)
The chain type cutters have a series of small hard cutting wheels at each link. So, when the chain is held tightly around the pipe and turned back and forth, the wheels cut into the pipe in short sections, so adding up to full circle. You get a perfect cut with little effort.

TC

Thanks TC. I bought this one from fleabay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282162696102. Looks the same as the one Mark found in post 3 but delivery included. It should/might arrive today. Naturally, it's chucking it down with rain now.:mad:


Quote:

Originally Posted by clf (Post 2764067)
Do it whilst it is on the ground.

Drop it to floor and pull it to the left side of the car. Remove the sub frame etc. Then cut the exhaust whilst you have the space to sit at it. Refit the suspension, being careful not to get cut by the exhaust pipe, then fit the exhaust.

How far to the left will it go without damaging the flexible joint (which I still haven't actually seen)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissMoppet (Post 2764084)
Put a wee note "new cat just fitted" and judging by recent posts someone will soon be along to cut it off in no time at all.

I bet they would too.

There a slight price difference between cats for the V6 and the 1.8. V6 = £222 and £1.8 = £330 or £176. https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Rov...ystem--m-12894

Mine looks nothing like the one Rimmers aftermarket V6 pic - mine's a perfect cylinder with no ribs. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001940

How long should they last anyway - i.e. it's 17 yrs old, do I need to change it? Or is there anything to gain by changing it - e.g. better consumption?

clf 24th September 2019 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink (Post 2764145)
So it does. I didn't spot that before!



Thanks TC. I bought this one from fleabay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282162696102. Looks the same as the one Mark found in post 3 but delivery included. It should/might arrive today. Naturally, it's chucking it down with rain now.:mad:




How far to the left will it go without damaging the flexible joint (which I still haven't actually seen)?



I bet they would too.

There a slight price difference between cats for the V6 and the 1.8. V6 = £222 and £1.8 = £330 or £176. https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Rov...ystem--m-12894

Mine looks nothing like the one Rimmers aftermarket V6 pic - mine's a perfect cylinder with no ribs. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001940

How long should they last anyway - i.e. it's 17 yrs old, do I need to change it? Or is there anything to gain by changing it - e.g. better consumption?

It will extend further than you think (well than I thought). The wection that I think you would need to cut, I think would be within the wheel area and with everything removed, I reckon it will give plenty of space.

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