Cleaning out sills?
This is probably in the wrong place, sorry
I have only just noticed I have three jacking pads missing. Is there a way to clean out the sills before putting new pads in place? |
I have on occasion sprayed a load penetrating oil into the sill openings and let it run around inside.
Also pumped standard engine oil in before on other vehicles. Not sure if it did anything :shrug: but it helped me feel better. ;) |
You can get limited access by opening up the wheel arch liners at the edge by the sill. I put the pressure hose in there and blasted all the crud until it ran clear from the drain holes. I left it a couple of weeks (in the summer) to dry out, used a heat gun along the sill to make sure that there was no moisture left, then sprayed internally via the 360 degree lance supplied and through the drain holes / jack pad apertures / end access holes mentioned previously with this stuff:-
https://i.imgur.com/GH4ni5J.jpg?1 Mike |
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Thanks guy's
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The best way to protect the sills is to remove the lower chrome trim (painted version on the ZT) and spray in through the holes for the clips. The sills on our cars are baffled every few inches so if you spray from the end or the jacking points your liquid of choice doesn’t get very far.
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Presumably the best way to flush out the sills first is also to go through the trim strip holes with a pressure washer - is that correct ? Cheers Pete |
Hi Pete, yes no harm in washing them out first, leave a few days to dry out fully though.
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yes and it is those baffles closest to the jacking points which have some form of foam / sponge that hold water, that cause the corrosion round that area and then rot from the inside out. I know a few members whom have had the sills repaired have those baffles removed from that jacking point area. |
If there is sponge in there am I right in thinking that washing may not be the way?
Would it be better to just dry out anything in there then spray in via any holes possible some form of rust prevention fluid? |
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