Tourer Rear Shocks
 

MOT advisory that mine are "misting"
So they need to be changed.
There are good and bad shocks out there for our cars.
Which do members know are the best flavour?
Another question is:- do I strip them down and use the rubbers and things again or change them at the same time?

Does anybody have a view?

I've had to look at Rimmers web site to see what you are referring to.
If you can get good dampers I would reuse the rest if they are in good condition.
Misting is the start of failing and they are not going to get any better but an advisory does not mean they need changing in mot speak but I would change them sooner rather then later.

As for makes, sorry I don't know what makes are out there, Girling used to have a good reputation but no idea now.

macafee2

:iagree:
Ian's right; if your shock absorbers are still doing their job there's no need to rush into replacing them until they either become rock hard or bouncy. They may well last for a considerable time yet. :}

Simon

I fitted a pair of these, so far very pleased. I'm glad I went for the complete replacement as when the old ones were removed the top mounts/rubbers etc were in quite a bad way.

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...0531-rpd108411

Fitted the new shockers from DMGRS, complete kit, to Copperleaf, noticeable difference handles much better.

Hi, my mechanic let them mist for years before the big change. Did talk to them at the time and they said wait till they star NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- fluid out so got another year's life out of of them. I think the brand they used was Munrow.

A question for Rob and Martin if I may:-
The two nuts at the top of the shock, were you able to use them again?
I'm thinking along the lines that being inside the car they wouldn't have corroded at all.

Top nuts did not need replacing and they do not come with the kit.

Not the top nut but the two either side of it. The two on the mounting bracket

Which dampers are the best without costing the earth?

KYB, TRW or Monroe are good brands, you should get any of those for less than £50 per side.

Had a looksee at DMGRS.
When I look for the damper in question all that comes up is for a ZT and ZTT. No mention of Rover 75.

Yes there's a few really good brands about that price.
Sachs are about the same, just changed the Sachs originals on the Volvo after very nearly 14 yrs/200k miles ;)

Russ

If I buy shocks for a ZTT and fit them to my 75 tourer, would I notice that much of a difference?
Reason for asking is that ones for my 75 are either silly money or none existent.

Looking at KYB dampers.
Has any members fitter these?
How have they been?

I have fitted a couple of sets of these over the years, I found them to be good.

Ordered me dampers 1pm yesterday. Delivered 10.40 today.
Not bad going eh?
Any tips on removing trim from the bootspace on a tourer so I can access the damper top mount?

Its quite an easy process once you find all the screws, it's a shame you're not closer I would have offered to give you a hand!

Essentially:

Remove luggage hooks (from floor + side)
Remove side trim (cream near the top of the tailgate)
Remove trim that runs under the side windows and towards the tailgate
Remove rear seat bolster (slide it up and forwards towards you)
Disconnect the emergency fuel door release

Remove screws (per side):
2 x under floorboard
2 x into the side of the car
1 x into the rear of the car
1 x under rear seat bolster

Very carefully ease it out from underneath the plastic cap at the top of the rear seat.
You should now be able to gently 'roll' the side free. I open the floorboard a little to help 'release it'. If you have another pair of hands ask them to guide it over the rubber soundproofing near the rear seat.

I would also advise buying some replacement trim clips. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...53.m2749.l2649

Hope that helps! If you get stuck feel free to drop me a message. Rob

Cheers Rob,
I've got this week off so guess what I'll be doing?