Clutch Hydraulic Problems - can you help please?
 

Hello everyone
This is the first time I have posted on any forum and I would be extremely grateful for any help you can give please.


My wife and I were recovered recently by an extremely helpful AA driver and the car, a 2002, 75 diesel, was dropped at our local mechanic. We have used him for many years but he is now at his wit's end. He has replaced the master cylinder with a new Rover original (the part number corresponds with the old unit), fluid is coming from the bleed valve but the pedal has no pressure at all.


There is no sign of fluid beneath the bellhousing from the slave cylinder and he fitted a new three piece clutch (one of those recommended on this forum, although I don't recall the make) about 30,000 miles ago. He reports there was fluid on the footrest below the clutch pedal, hence the change of master cylinder.


Thank you in advance for any help; my wife is desperate to get her 75 back.

Hello and welcome, I would have another look at the slave cylinder, they don't always leak fluid out of the bellhousing when they fail.

If you disconnect the clutch at the quick connector near the bellhousing, press the pedal, if its firm then its the slave that's at fault.

Hello Trikey


Thank you very much for the quick reply, I'll contact him tomorrow.

If you cannot find fluid under the bell housing try the following.

Remove the master cylinder cap, remove the rubber seal, often referred to as a condom from inside the master cylinder. The master cylinder does not hold a lot of fluid but check how much is in there. If the mechanic thinks there is sufficient then an internal seal in the master cylinder may have failed. As the clutch pedal is pushed down fluid is pushed down the hydraulic pipe. With bleed valve open the seal may be good enough to still push fluid along the pipe but with the valve closed the seal may be allowing clutch fluid to bypass it and remain in the master cylinder.
If you are lucky this is the problem as it is cheaper and easier to replace.


Actually I should have read trikeys post better. If the quick coupling is apart and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor even slowly the master has failed. My master failed in only 11 months ?
Could try bleeding the whole system just in case

good luck

macafee2

Thanks for confirming and adding to the picture, I appreciate you taking the time to help and will update you both on the situation when I hear from the mechanic tomorrow.

The picture below might be handy.---;)

Thanks for the diagram, it's very clear and could save both time and the scratching of heads. I struggle with connectors of most kinds so it's particularly welcome.

Sometimes bleeding by using a vacuum pump on the bleed nipple purges air out of the system similarly introducing fresh fluid via the bleed nipple can also purge air from the system.


Obvious care must be taken with the second system to collect expelled fluid and prevent damage as the master cylinder overflows.

Old washing up bowl under the pedal/master cylinder area + lots of paper towel. A long flat screwdriver is often needed to tap/remove the cap on our cars.;)

Thanks for this information, I can see the issue with the master cylinder overflowing.


I spoke to the mechanic today but he hasn't had the opportunity to work on the car today. I will try and visit tomorrow to check on any progress and talk to him in person about the recommendations.


All the best.