cambelt change time
 

Hi,

I,m in the process of changing the cambelt on my v6, along with a few more parts while most of the top half of the engine is dismantled!

Have got as far as removing the main belt, and reading a lot of members comments about removing the camshaft end cap seals and the fact they pop off or leak, plus the fact there is very little room to tap or hammer them back in!
I was going to leave them alone, but my query is how do i use the locking tools without removing the caps as the sprockets have moved slightly after removing the belt?

Also referring to the excellent thread by beinet1 and the procedure for fitting/adjusting the tensioner pulley states the sprocket bolt s need to be loose, again, some members state they didnt remove the bolts and not sure why the need to be to fit tensioner pulley?

Many thanks.Steve.

Hi Steve,

If you remove the original caps carefully by twisting whilst easing them out, taking your time and adding lubricant if required, they can be refitted afterwards. I did this on the LH bank and mine has not popped off or leaked.
New ones are such a tight fit that it's very difficult to drive them home fully and that's when they pop off or leak!
If you're referring to the inlet camshaft sprocket bolts Steve, they don't need to be touched* either to replace the tensioner pulley or, in fact, when replacing the timing belt.
Most importantly, do you have the INA set-up procedure for the tensioner pulley?

Simon

* This should read "removed" which was your original question. Sorry.

Thanks for the quick reply Simon,
I'll try easing the caps off as you explained( fingers crossed).

I do have the INA procedure for tensioner pulley, that was the reference from beinet1 thread i mentioned, it states to assemble the pulley need to fit locking tools, which i have got but not fitted yet, fit crank timing pin(done), fit tensioner plunger and slacken camshaft bolts.

Hi Steve,

I've just checked my paper copy of the INA instructions and the camshaft sprocket bolts are not mentioned. Can you post the reference you've seen please?

In order to set-up the tensioner pulley the belt must be fitted and so the sprocket bolts must be in place and tight. There is no good reason to slacken them.

Simon

This is the procedure i downloaded from beinet 1 thread, there is a note on page 1.
Steve.

I would not advise reusing the camshaft end caps as I have seen what can happen when they fall out

Are they fairly easy to fit the new ones, looking at the youtube video they tap them in with a rubber mallet, but they have the advantage of having the engine out!

They are not that bad to get in either knock them in or use piece of wood as a lever

Thanks, they were sourced from Mat at DMGRS and have a thread on the edge so presume that gives a better grip.

A bit late now I guess but I still don’t understand the necessity of the timing tools. I’ve changed a few v6 belts now (if you think access is tricky on a 75 try changing one on a zs!) and I haven’t used or needed the tools which means none of the caps needed removing.
Mark the old belt with reference to the cam pulleys and the rear covers, and mark the crank pulley referencing the belt and block. Transfer marks from old belt to new belt, then fit new belt aligning all the reference marks. Engine was timed at factory and a new belt will maintain the original timing provided it has the same number of teeth as the removed belt and nothing has moved. Makes light work of a simple job complicated by unnecessary tools.
If you loose the timing because the cam pulleys have been loosened then yes the timing tools will be required.