The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/index.php)
-   Technical Help Forum (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=11)
-   -   2005 Freelander TD4 help (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=316605)

martinwest 28th November 2021 10:38

2005 Freelander TD4 help
 
High everyone
My son brought this car off eBay last week hoping it was a easy fix ( yer right ) any help would be greatly appreciated

Symptoms
Lots of white diesel smoke
Will tick over when warm but won’t rev up
Have to use easy start from cold as tries to fire but won’t start
Hot will start after a few goes

Done so far
Injectors leak down test 1 replaced
All 4 glow plugs faulty replaced
Cam sensor tested ok
Map sensor cleaned
Head gasket coolant gas test ok but engine cold
Fuel pressure high 4000psi low pressure supply 313.20
Manifold pressure 14.4psi
Fuel pressure regulator current 0.65
Air flow 388.6 mg/str
All at idle
Previous owner replaced the low pressure pump
and there are no fault codes

Mike Noc 28th November 2021 11:33

Next thing I'd do would be a compression test on the cylinders - low compression could be the cause of your symptoms.

dave lincs 28th November 2021 11:51

Just a thought are you sure it is diesel in the tank had one doing this bit ago he had put petrol in it

Ducati750cc 28th November 2021 12:31

If it is white lingers and is not steam, steam dissipates quickly and you can smell derv in the smoke it's a sign of the derv not been correctly combusted in the cylinders, yje unburnt fuel passing through the exhaust



Causes can be low compression, faulty injection timing, faulty injectors, low fuel pressure , contaminated derv, timing gear problems and as mentioned by Dave, petrol in the derv, easy to find out draw some derv out of the tank, have a sniff at it the petrol smell is usually apparent, somewhere safe, pour a small quantity on a stone or concrete surface and try to light it with a match, derv shouldn't ignite it need a wick much like paraffin, but with petrol in the petrol vapours ignite, soon flare out and leave an oily deposit on the surface.


Plus check for water in the derv.

martinwest 28th November 2021 12:43

Thanks for the reply's I couldn't smell petrol or see water when I did the leak down test but I will try lighting it to see what happens and then I will check the compressions as I have just realised my compression tester has a adaptor the same size as the glow plugs Also the smoke is defiantly derv
Is there any way to check the timing as I thought the ECU was in charge of that ?

Ducati750cc 28th November 2021 13:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by martinwest (Post 2910007)
Thanks for the reply's I couldn't smell petrol or see water when I did the leak down test but I will try lighting it to see what happens and then I will check the compressions as I have just realised my compression tester has a adaptor the same size as the glow plugs Also the smoke is defiantly derv
Is there any way to check the timing as I thought the ECU was in charge of that ?


A word of caution, make sure your comp gauge, hose and adaptors are up to coping with diesel compressions which can be around an average of 300+ psi. up to 600+ psi.


It can make quite a 'pop' when a hose or gauge lets go !

martinwest 28th November 2021 13:53

Mine goes up to 300psi and I have read on the land rover forum it should be about 270psi can anyone confirm that before I try

Thanks

Jamiewelch 28th November 2021 17:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by martinwest (Post 2909987)
High everyone
My son brought this car off eBay last week hoping it was a easy fix ( yer right ) any help would be greatly appreciated

Symptoms
Lots of white diesel smoke
Will tick over when warm but won’t rev up
Have to use easy start from cold as tries to fire but won’t start
Hot will start after a few goes

Done so far
Injectors leak down test 1 replaced
All 4 glow plugs faulty replaced
Cam sensor tested ok
Map sensor cleaned
Head gasket coolant gas test ok but engine cold
Fuel pressure high 4000psi low pressure supply 313.20
Manifold pressure 14.4psi
Fuel pressure regulator current 0.65
Air flow 388.6 mg/str
All at idle
Previous owner replaced the low pressure pump
and there are no fault codes

You replaced the dodgy injector with one with the same part number as the others? 75 and freelander injectors are different and can't be mixed. Your air flow is low at idle, should be 510-520mg/s

martinwest 28th November 2021 17:22

Hi Jamie
I got the injector from eurocarparts ordered on the reg and what would cause the air flow to be low could it be down to running lumpy when I took the live data?

Mike Noc 28th November 2021 22:15

One other thought - have you checked the EGR valve? If that is bypassing then it could cause lumpy running, smoke and lack of revs. Try unplugging it then whip the pipe off and visually check it is closed fully.















.

Arctic 28th November 2021 22:40

Hi Martin.
When was the fuel filter last changed out, also check the flow on the fuel pump both behind the OS wheel arch liner.

https://i.imgur.com/VMh4NQHl.jpg1

Have you checked the pot for water, as it as a plug you can undo to let out fuel to check if any water is present.
https://i.imgur.com/Y5Z3h0Nl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/bmFQqAGl.jpg3

Regarding the injectors i note you did a full leak back test, and one was leaking so you changed it, but how did the others fair, personally when i find a injector needs changing out i prefer to pull all four, clean them then add new copper washers.


You have a clean air filter also i presume, have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor and starting the car from cold, without a sniff of easy start.

Check the fuel rail sensor plug for corrosion to the pins, spray with contact cleaner only. there is also a new lead should it be the plug that's breaking down.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pr...20-p-6875.html

You could most likely make one up for less.

T4 should help with diagnosis ;)

martinwest 29th November 2021 08:21

Mike ok thanks I will check that

Artic I will have to ask the previous owner about the fuel filter and I will check for water
I am going to do a compression test then pull the other injectors (all the same on leak off) and get them tested and yes tried no air filter and unplugged the MAF
I had assumed the pressure sensor was working as I got a live pressure reading but I will check that as well
Thanks for the advice

martinwest 29th November 2021 16:28

Bit of an update I have pulled the other injectors and No 4 is rusty down the body of the injector going to check the engine tomorrow with a bore scope:shrug:

Arctic 30th November 2021 01:15

Quote:

Quote:

Originally Posted by martinwest (Post 2910210)
Bit of an update I have pulled the other injectors and No 4 is rusty down the body of the injector going to check the engine tomorrow with a bore scope:shrug:


HI Martin
Clean the body of the injectors, you could then remove the tip and clean those out with carb cleaner so the spray pattern is the same five fine spurts.

https://i.imgur.com/JMI18Qkl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/L6keS46l.jpg2

You could go the whole hog a strip down the injectors and clean then all through, you may need new shims or O-rings you will not know until the strip down.
https://i.imgur.com/fUScUftl.jpg3

Most of the time you will get away with just cleaning the tips
https://i.imgur.com/mcRiWpdl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/UgpKev4l.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/ZDvGlNfl.jpg6

https://i.imgur.com/irEvX9Bl.jpg7

https://i.imgur.com/LqvXb6Kl.jpg8

Make sure you are super clean doing the work.

And always fit new copper washes before re-fitting the injectors, the post hole also need to be clean even if you have to suck out any debris.
https://i.imgur.com/epmiw2fl.jpg9

https://i.imgur.com/7kUDSjzl.jpg10

https://i.imgur.com/avTgD84l.jpg11

https://i.imgur.com/489C2yZl.jpg12

https://i.imgur.com/BJUdkaKl.jpg13

https://i.imgur.com/qckUlvXl.jpg14

martinwest 30th November 2021 14:40

Hi Artic

just tried with a spanner and they wont budge dose it need more force as I don't want to damage them

Arctic 1st December 2021 00:11

Quote:

Quote:

Originally Posted by martinwest (Post 2910362)
Hi Artic

just tried with a spanner and they wont budge dose it need more force as I don't want to damage them


Hi Martin.
Clamp the injector into the vice, and use a ring spanner to crack the cap cover, first clean any dirt around the top, with a nylon or brass wire brush.

https://i.imgur.com/NvS8Rdql.jpg1

Crack the cover 15mm ring spanner, they are quite tight, once cracked undo a little then tighten it back down with your fingers, once again clean any dirt that as risen from opening the cover, repeat this until all dirt and been cleaned.
https://i.imgur.com/dtkH9Ivl.jpg2

keep you finger on top the the tip while doing this procedure.
https://i.imgur.com/JfQaTFAl.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/MxC0zb3l.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/nMEkLj8l.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/gK1Ywuql.jpg6

as you lift the cover hold down the tip.
https://i.imgur.com/b187mtJl.jpg7

Now slowly remove the tip take great care as there are two little locating pins, and and a centre shim.
https://i.imgur.com/eE6tOsll.jpg8

Do not lose any of those.
https://i.imgur.com/oUMy3Pql.jpg9

Place the tip on a clean piece of paper with the cover, note the centre pin.
https://i.imgur.com/R6Htsbll.jpg10

You need to tap this centre pin out by just knock the edge of the body on the paper which should be on an hard surface, once it starts to come out you can grip it and pull it out fully.
https://i.imgur.com/6jIrdF2l.jpg11

https://i.imgur.com/hlwb1CAl.jpg12

Spray them with carb cleaner and wipe clean.

Then with the body in your hands spray carb cleaner through the centre so you can see the spray come out of the tip in a 5 hole spray pattern
https://i.imgur.com/iUqEMPpl.jpg13

https://i.imgur.com/7dYto5rl.jpg14

Clean inside the cover with carb cleaner and a rag refit the pin in to the tip, make sure its free to move, you can dip it into some diesel if you like.

Re-fit in reverse of taking apart, this is the simplest way of cleaning the tips, you will now know that the spray pattern is equal.

If the injector is leaking internally due to a shim or tiny o-ring then you would need to do a full strip down which is time consuming and you need a sonic cleaner.

Once you have cleaned all the tips add new copper washers and refit to the same place they came from in the engine.

Hopefully there is no leak back and the car starts better.

martinwest 1st December 2021 15:43

Problem solved I left a cup of derv to sit overnight and this morning it smelt of petrol so I put a match to it and yes it burnt should have done that on day one as others suggested:duh: I just didn’t expect it as the seller who is a engineer had spent 3 months trying to fix it for his mum I think he should asked her for the receipt when she filled up:D. But on the plus side I did the glow and the injectors and my son has a bargain
A really big thanks to everyone for the help

dave lincs 1st December 2021 15:52

Great result as I suggested it was petrol very early on in this thread, but must just say a big thank you to Arctic for yet another excellent detailed reply to this

martinwest 1st December 2021 15:56

Yes Dave I should have listened and also I have learnt a lot from Artic with this :D

dave lincs 1st December 2021 16:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by martinwest (Post 2910467)
Yes Dave I should have listened and also I have learnt a lot from Artic with this :D

This is what the club is all about and we are all here to help each other where we can, Without people like Arctic with his excellent posts and pictures some of us would not dare to tackle some of the jobs they do

martinwest 1st December 2021 16:25

I totally agree and its not even a rover 75 / ZT :D


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:36.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd