Torque setting for PG1 gearbox
 

This is a bit off topic as it's for my MGF's PG1 gearbox but I have looked everywhere (MGF shop manual, Freelander shop manual, various online forums and articles) and I can't find one specific torque spec.....
It's for the shift interlock assembly to the differential casing.
There are two 6mm bolts (different lengths), and one 8mm bolt.
For now I have torqued the 6mms to 12nm and the 8mm to 17nm
but I would like to know the correct torques as this is a critical assembly.

http://www.fototime.com/0FFBDB4D5CC2082/standard.jpg

Analysis paralysis?
Torque with a good key, and just a firm hand, and you will be fine!
If in doubt add Loctite, but I wouldn't.
I will see if I can find values in MGF manual.

I don’t have the torque settings to hand but as Kaiser says tightening up with a ‘firm hand’ will be sufficient. Incidentally if you’ve not had a PG1 apart the top circlip can be a nightmare, unless you flip the gearbox over and tap the gearbox on the bench allowing the bearing to drop down ;)

https://imgur.com/a/Blcd1fh

All I can find! Can't post the image, for some reason??:icon_question:

From MGF workshop manual.

Happy New Year to all and sundry.!
Don't take the carp, stand up and get counted. We need to show the flag!

Thanks all!
Kaiser, thats the same page as in my MGF manual which for some reason doesnt show those bolts (although they show torque values for bolts that you would never bother using a torque wrench on!).
I ended up using the torque for similar size bolts found elsewhere. I did use some Loctite as if one of the bolts happens to come out it would be carnage in the gearbox!
Thanks again, I will button up the box and get it back in the F which will then go up for sale. Mrs. RIV says only one MG at a time and I am definitely keeping the ZT.

BTW: no worries with the bearing circlip. I have done them before without issues. A bit awkward but I have got the procedure down,

Now that was interesting!
I got the box together and for the life of me couldn't get the circlip to locate in it's groove. I had put the new gearsets together using parts from two gearboxes (one Mpi and one VVC) along with new steel caged bearings, synchros and seals. Off came the lid again, but it took quite a bit of sleuthing to find the problem. I had been told that the only difference between Mpi and VVC boxes was the diff ratio, but hadn't considered that the output shaft gearing was also different by one tooth. It's all back together now with the correct shaft, and appears to be working well on the bench.
I am very happy that although I was able to assemble the box with the wrong output shaft I was unable to shift it that last 1/2mm to get the circlip into it's slot. If I had been able to assemble it that would have turned into a bigger problem! :eek:
Next job is to get the box back into the car and reinstall all of the bits that had to come off to get it out.

http://www.fototime.com/31B51F3A8D3C9CF/standard.jpg