Another KV6 timing belt thread (I know!)
 

Sorry lads, just wondering if there's any definitive/'how to' thread on replacing the timing belts for a KV6 engine?

I've tried searching and have got some info, but not really a full on step by step with photos, but saying that I do have the Haynes manual on the way.

Pretty much I have a 2.0L 75 with just over 100,000km on the clock. I have no idea if the belts have been done, but at that many km's and most Kiwi's attitude to car maintenance, I'm going to assume no.

So my choices are:

-Don't do it and prey/run her into the ground.....not really a choice!

-Pay around $2000NZD for a workshop to do the job, I'm getting a quote made up at the moment.

-Do it myself, this I'm a bit scared about as this is my first car with overhead cams (I'm used to 1800 B-series engines), let alone with 3 timing belts!

Can it be done by a rookie? or is it a case of biting the bullet this time, handing over some cash and then hopefully with some more know how down the line do it myself (assuming I have the car still etc)

Cheers,

-Indy

Andrew,

You'll be fine with your experience and a Haynes manual. If any questions crop up, just ask here and you'll get a quick response. Remember that a timing belt is, in principle, exactly the same as the chain on your B series. The two rear belts on the KV6 are simply looped between inlet and exhaust camshafts.

Read everything you can find on the forum before starting.

Simon

B-series?? Anyone else here with a BMC-B in the garage??

There are 3 classic youtube clips here...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC7i5R6lpEQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05Wl0...page=1&t=t&f=b

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc

.......dealing with engine , manifolds , and timing belts in turn . You need to remember that they were prepared for the kv6 as fitted to the earlier 800 series Rovers , and there are a few differences especially to the manifolds .
The last clip deals with the belts , but does use the special tools which are not essential , and the rear belt gears are the older 825 type . There is a how-to on here somewhere showing how to do it without the special tools , done by Gadgetboy , I think ?
Otherwise , enjoy ! :}

Cheers for the info lads.

From what I gather it's like doing a timing chain (as Simon said), where you need to make sure the marks are lined up once you put tension back on the new belt.

I'll see what the mechanic bill comes back as, but at the moment it's looking very costly.

Everyone seems confident that it can be done without the tools, but even if a I bought a set of tools I'd still be saving a ton of cash!

Will let you guys know what I end up doing, otherwise the car is pretty sweet, even for an auto! (had to get auto as the mrs needs to drive it and manual versions don't seem to exist here in NZ).

The tools are just there to confuse you. They serve no useful purpose, except for holding some sprocket when you loosen a bolt. They are actually a red herring and can cause more harm than good.

This engine is timed by the marks on the rear sprockets, which must be in line with the engine in safe mode. That is all that counts. So when the engine is back together, the lines must line up at the back,when the tensioner is released.

That is all there is to it.

With the belts, replace all other items with bearings in them, including the water pump.

Invite a friend over for tea:D and plan for two days, if all the spares are at hand.
It will actually take you four days, skinned knuckles and an increased vocabulary.

But it is indeed doable.:cool:

Well just got the quotes back, $2100NZD (1100ish GBP) for the belt job with all the new tensioners and water pump etc. $2800NZD (1400ish GBP) for the same again but with cam shaft seals if needed.

I'll have to think it over and get prices for the parts myself. Will also need to see what the Haynes book of lies says on the matter.

Would one need to remove inlet cam sprockets like in the video? (I assume one has to removed the exhaust ones to get the new belts on)

-Andrew

You don't have to touch the front sprocket at all if the lines at the back line up before the change.
If you don't use the tool, there is no need to take the oil seals out, unless they leak.

Oh so one would only take out the front sprockets to replace the oil seals?

Sorry for all the silly questions, still getting my head around this stuff. Cheers.

No you would not take the front sprockets off at all. The only reason to loosen the front sprocket is if the system has to be timed. In other words if the lines at the back cannot line up because they are a fraction of a tooth off.

The oil seals at the ends of the cams are removed to locate the tool in these holes. Several instances of these seals subsequently falling out have been recorded.

Treat this like a normal cambelt change. It really is nothing else. Other systems have a locked sprocket so it will only go on one way. Treat this as a normal system, unless for some reason you cant get the lines at the back to line up.

Think it through. Most people don't understand what is going on here, but it is really not difficult. Red herrings abound, but just ignore them and trust you instinct, if it is worth trusting?:D

Otherwise just trust me.!:D