Brake bleed nipples
 

I'm planning on having all the brake fluid replaced on my ZT and think it will be a good idea to replace all the nipples possibly with stainless, does anyone know the size or are they a standard size regardless of car?

Thanks,
Roy

Just replaced mine Roy and they were standard M8 thread. I didn't go down the stainless route but gave them a coat of Copaslip instead.


















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Just did mine or at least tried to. Bought 2 x M7 and 2 x M8 based on ebay description for vented front and solid rear. However after doing the rears with the M8 I found that the front were also M8 and not M7 as expected. Maybe an anomaly, and not much help but thems the facts.

You may want to give them a few days for penetrating oil to soak in if they've not been disturbed for a while, Roy.

It doesn't take much effort to twist their heads off.

I discovered:duh:

a

Edit: Nipped to the garage and found my front one - std. M8 thread 9 A/F, For ref 20mm from hex to pointy end.

So now I'm a bit confused, is it m6 or m8? and are they same front and rear?


El Del Monte :D

M8 and apologies for the typo which I have now corrected. The eyesight isn't what it was. :getmecoat:

On my car, a diesel, both front and rears were the same.



















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trying to order a new set myself without undoing and checking mine. are fronts and rears the same or bigger on the front. i suppose 180 190 and tourers may vary. i have r75 kv6 saloon 2.5 so not sure if they are the same as 1.8 t or not. i will order some but no point if they dont fit. and i dont want cheap alloy tat like those that came from big red when i did a cylinder and caliper refurb they wouldnt take much breaking off !! any ideas where and of course the sizes. i have standard brakes front and rear incidentaly. .... thanks.

all sorted gents . winging their way from rimmers ... not a bad price really. ;)

Using copper grease is ok to cover them AFTER the nipples have been tightened. Do not use it on the threads, it causes overtightening.
Snapped off bleed nipples are 50% rust, 50% overtightening.
An Ogre I knew many decades ago would trash new ones tightening them

A little copper grease applied to say ZT wheel bolts, torque down to 75 lb/ft. Actual torque is 90-100 lb/ft.

It doesn't cause overtightening Steve, but it does make breaking out the thread in future an awful lot easier ;)

Most people don't understand that these only need a little "nip" 5 Nm, as they are a tube not a bolt.

The rough calculation in terms of torque applied to achieve a similar clamping load to a fastener differential between dry and lubricated is a reduction of 40% so 3Nm for the bleed screws.....as I say just a nip ;)

Brian :D