I need more advice on clutch slave failure
 

I have removed my under tray from my diesel and there is no sign of a leak from the slave.

If the slave is leaking will it definitely show signs underneath the "engine"?

There seems to be two holes underneath where engine and gearbox meet, I have stuck a finger into the holes and no signs of fluid.

I think I will try an endoscope which others have talked about
but any advice on the signs of fluid I would be grateful for as removing gearbox to check is a big job.

macafee2

A leaking slave won’t always drop fluid out from the bellhousing.

Have a nose about with the camera and see if it shows signs of failure before pulling the gearbox off.

I've heard of the dust in the bellhousing soaking up lost fluid Ian, although the last one I did on my Freelander was pretty obvious:


https://i.imgur.com/dRpQ5PR.jpg?1




On your car the bell housing was clean inside, so if it is the slave leaking I would have thought you would see evidence of it.



How much fluid have you had to put in?

How much is it leaking ??
I haven't read any of your other posts on the subject so please excuse my ignorance.

Does the clutch still work ??

If it needs lots of topping up and it is the slave that's the problem it is definitely going to run out of that drain hole.

Simply keep topping it up and letting it leak.--;)

If nothing appears you have probably got the drivers foot well soaking in brake fluid.---:eek::eek::eek:

Or the top of the gearbox at the pipe junction is running with brake fluid.

One way or another you ARE going to locate that leak.---:D

This is the problem, when I checked the master it was still full. I bled the system but got very little fluid out compared to what I put in. The pedal is from time to time staying down and I cant get out of gear all the time with the engine running.
I then had a weeks holiday so the car just sat.

Even this month I will have very little time to spend on the car.

I think I will try an endoscope as mentioned in another thread to look into the bell housing. I will bleed again as I will have more time. If that does not work then I will remove the master and see what that reveals. I may replace it but I want to try all avenues before I remove the gearbox. Last time I did this I had the car on ramps for about 7 months but there was so much other stuff to do and the thought of doing it all again fills me with dread. I'm sure this time will be quicker.

The thought of removing gear box is worse then removing it, I know that

macafee2

Yes the first thing to do is remove, strip and clean out the master cylinder - sounds more like crud has blocked the ports than a slave buying the farm.

I concur with Mike, this sounds more like a failure of the make up valve in the master cylinder ;)

Brian :D

ok I will remove master. when I sucked out fluid there did seem to be crud in there but goodness knows how it got there.

fix the puncture on my mountain bike first then take a look after lunch

macafee2

master removed and cleaned, did not seem to be any more crud in it.
I will split the hydraulic line at the joint half way along and bleed to there then try to bleed to the slave.

with the hydraulic line split I should be able to push the clutch pedal down without losing fluid, is that right? If I'm right I will bleed, then see what happens when I push the pedal down, if it goes to the floor then the master is duff. If it goes solid its not looking good for the salve

macafee2

Ian with the hydraulic line split, you won't be able to press the pedal down at all

Did yoo remove the poppet valve in the end of the piston and ensure the gallery was clear?


Brian :D