V6 screw up
 

This is bad. I have just been trough the challenge of replacing the timing belts on my 1999 2.0 V6 all being very careful with the lock pin being in place all the time, marks here and there, turning it several times by hand after the replacement to ensure everything lines up as before.


Now that I start it up it runs on max 5 cylinders and there is also a ticking noise. Kind of like some valves being stuck open. I had a look into the front three cylinders with a snake cam, and there were no marks or debris.


What have I done wrong? It is ready for the junk yard? I am so tired of it.


Thanks,


Jens.

Have you checked for spark, and fuel.?
Get some fault codes.
You haven't broken a cam?

Be sure, if it turns by hand and pin has been in throughout, you won't have a bent valve>

Get codes find cylinder, concentrate on wire, spark plug, coil, injector.

Som sagt mange gange foer, ikke verdens bedste motor!:getmecoat:

I forgot to mention that: No fault codes.


However, I removed the crank pulled as suggested in the Haynes manual by putting it in 5th gear and the wife pressing the brake pedal hard to hold it. It was hard to get out and I wonder if the crank could have been damaged?

The crank could not be damaged from that, guaranteed.!
Use a better scan tool, there must be a code if you have a misfire.

On thing I do remember was that the notch on the crank timing belt sprocket was not straight up but a little counter clockwise with the locking pin in place. I didn't touch it, but upon reflection shouldn't it be that?

A short answer: No
I think it is related to the belt change, somehow, but I don't think it would be timing related.
What scanner did you use?
Have you tested all coils, even those difficult to get at?
Have you checked spark plugs.?
Done compression testing?
Is (are) your manifold(s) on tight, no leaks?
Tested spark plug leads?

If you don't get a fault code, then proceed as follows:

Run engine and remove one spark plug lead at a time, until you find the culprit. You can hear it, because the revs will not be affected, when you pull the plug to the offending cylinder.

When you have the offending cylinder, do a compression test first, which will quickly tell you if there is a bent valve. If compression is OK, you look for spark and/or fuel.

Let us know:}

Hello Jens,

I have just completed the same job on my car. I have to ask you one very important question: did you use the special service tools?

My second question concerns the timing belt tensioner. After fitting the new front belt, did you set this up according to the procedure given only by manufacturer INA?

The notch on the crankshaft sprocket didn’t perfectly align with the “speech bubble” on my car and other members have reported the same so you can forget about that. :}
Ahhh. ;) How did you remove the rear belts and sprockets with the flywheel locking pin in place?
No, but you’ll probably have to brace yourself for doing it again using a different method. I should be able to help when you’ve replied to my questions.

Simon

I have some standard ELM 327 Bluetooth scanner connected to my phone and using an Android app called Torque. It has worked fine so far and the last things I used it for was actually the VIS servos on the Rover.



How long time does the engine have to run to start reporting misfires and the like?



No I haven't checked coils, plugs, cables and compression yet, since they were all fine before and I didn't touch them (deliberately, at least). But I guess I will eventually have to.


Replaced all six manifold seals with new ones as well as idlers, water pump, thermostat and the two water pipes.

As already said, depending on how you removed the rear sprockets, my first thought was broken camshaft.
How did you hold the camshafts still when you loosened & tightened the bolts?
Another thought is that if you had a stray spark from a coli pack etc, that would also give you a misfire of course but you may also hear a kind of 'ticking' noise.
Personally, I would remove both cam covers & physically check the camshafts & also re-align all the timing (with cam covers removed) & check the position of the cam lobes.
I just noticed that you changed the thermostat:
Did you remove the inlet manifolds to do this & if so, did you replace the gaskets & 'O' rings?
Check for an air leak by spraying penetrating fluid around the manifold area with the engine running.
Are all injectors connected securely?
You really need to establish which cylinder is misfiring really so you can concentrate on that cylinder.
Again, as already suggested, a compression test will also help.

Hi Simon,


I did buy a set of tools, but besides the locking pin, I ended up not using it. The two short belts are actually not too difficult and easy to check with marks. And yes, I did temporarily remove the lock pin loosening and tightening those two bolts.


Jens.