Panel replacement
 

I've just replaced a damaged O/S/F wing on my Contemporary saloon and believe the one I removed was the original. There are 4x 5mm(?) hex. head fasteners spaced along the engine bay top gutter, these fasten the top of the wing to the inner wheel arch panel (which forms the inside of the engine bay) and is a 'curved line' running towards the front of the vehicle/headlight aperture. Sandwiched between the wing and the inner arch top edge joint are two flat washers (only at the two intermediate fastener positions).
My question is - does anyone know if these are part of the wing/bonnet alignment process because the 'new' wing is now sitting a little proud of the bonnet level.

Have a word with Steve, he might've re-done the pics:shrug: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=129705

Hi John.
I presume you are referring to the two washers in the photo 25 in the link below, did you check that the new wing did not have any debris on the under side of it.

Also did you add some silicone along the length of the inner wing before fitting as this aids sealing along the edge.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=299211

Steve that link should replace your original in the How to forum as a sticky, perhaps have a word with Paul:cool:

Hi Ron.
Happy birthday by the way :birthday:

Yes i could not add the photos to that thread as it's closed but if the live link is clicked it as the photos ;)

Steve, as usual you have trodden the path.
Yes it's exactly those two washers so it appears to be a normal factory practice; there was a comment (#2) by McAfee added to your original post that specifically mentioned the washers which were, in his case, colour coded - shims? The old joint was as clean as a whistle along the whole length and on re-assembly I didn't add any sealant because there didn't appear to be any in the first place, even the washers came away easily! I've kept the damaged wing so I'll have a look (I take it you meant sealant is to be run between the vertical joint formed by the 'back' of wing turned-down edge and the upturn edge of the wheel arch inner?).
I still have a slight issue to resolve at some point, the apparent difference in 'height' between bonnet edge (can be adjusted - not sure how/what to alter, the hinge or the sprung locking pin height) and the newly seated wing (which is more or less a fixed datum).

I've replaced many wings on 75's over the years and there are always washers under the top rail. It's perfectly acceptable on a car like the 75/ZT to do this, to achieve perfect final alignment of the panel - the shell of a 75 is incredibly accurate, but there will always be tiny differences between individual cars and panels, which can be rectified by inserting or removing the washers which act like shims.

Hence, add or remove as required on your car to get the best fit against the bonnet edge, and compare to the other side to ensure they match.

Lastly, DO NOT add silicone to this joint !! :duh::duh:
There is no reason to seal it as, unlike an old Metro, you have a plastic wheelarch liner which stops the mud & muck collecting. Silicone is for sealing around baths, not for fitting 75 wings.... If it were meant to be used anywhere on our cars, Rover would have done so during production and as I've never seen a rusty wing top on a 75, it certainly won't aid corrosion protection ! It'll just squeeze out around the edges and anyone looking under the bonnet will see the signs of an amateur bodge.

Equally, there is no sealer down the rear edge as the wing is simply bolted to the A-pillar, with a vertical piece of foam in a plastic bag pushed in from the wheel side once fitted, to fill the void. Be careful though, as these can trap moisture and are questionable against any noise saving they provide. So up to you whether you refit or not.

Good luck with the alignment :xmas-smiley-008:

Hi John.
Sorry for the delay in answering as i have been busy, sorting out other amateur bodges. :icon_rolleyes:

There are some rubber stops which you can use to raise the bonnet edge to the wings, also you can adjust the bonnet strikers to help.

Hi Simon.
here you go take tension off the spring with mole grips.
https://i.imgur.com/Tblpfe6l.jpg1

Crack the nut with a 17mm open end spanner.
https://i.imgur.com/40dqmDBl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/t4SulNOl.jpg3

Then use your good flat blade screwdriver to adjust.

once you have found your height or that the bonnet holds down with out being to tight to pop back up, re-tighten the locking nut.
https://i.imgur.com/CGgFH43l.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/uOz9k6Rl.jpg5

I will be taking these off in the next few day to clean and do the little flatting of the plate to aid getting the spanner on but i doubt once adjusted you will ever need to do them again.

Puzzle now solved

I hate to tell you this Arctic, but by using molegrips to compress the spring (as shown in your photos), you are actually increasing the torsional forces within the metal of the spring, not reducing it...:duh:

And if you look closely at each bonnet pin, you'll see a small slot in it's tip. This is so that you can insert a flat blade screwdriver to hold it steady whilst undoing the locknut, and then to turn the pin to make your height adjustment ;)

But I'm sure you knew that really...:shrug:

However, I'd be very surprised if the wing to bonnet height adjustment would ever need this sort of work, the bonnet hinge, shims and adjustable rubbers should give you all you need :xmas-smiley-008:

The wing panel I removed appeared 'original' and undisturbed. I didn't find any foam/plastic sheath at the rear vertical joint. Mine is a facelift, do you think this might have been a PPD delete? I'll try the bonnet adjustment first to see if I can eliminate the slight difference in wing/bonnet line.