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-   -   Rover 75 bonnet problems (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=308639)

Scoobydodad 17th October 2020 13:10

Rover 75 bonnet problems
 
Hi need some advice, just bought a set of bonnet cables and plungers as I call them, all installed work fine when I shut the bonnet and pull the lever bonnet won't open left side is there a certain length the plungers should be I did make the left hand one the same length as the right one still won't open have had to undo the 10mm bolts in the left hand one with bonnet shut to open it, any advice would be helpful.

suzublu 17th October 2020 13:37

Make sure the two bolts either side of the "half moon" catches aren't too tight. Have someone pull the lever in the car and watch to see the catches move in and out.:cool:

stocktake 17th October 2020 14:23

We had this happen at a Nano meet once, no matter what we did the cable would not activate the catch, to cut a long story short we had put the nipple on the end of the cable in the wrong way.

Scoobydodad 17th October 2020 14:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu (Post 2842841)
Make sure the two bolts either side of the "half moon" catches aren't too tight. Have someone pull the lever in the car and watch to see the catches move in and out.:cool:

Hi thanks for reply, with bonnet open pull lever all works fine opens both catches it's only when you close the bonnet the left hand won't open this is why I asked if the plungers are a certain length.
Mike

rab60bit 17th October 2020 15:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoobydodad (Post 2842859)
Hi thanks for reply, with bonnet open pull lever all works fine opens both catches it's only when you close the bonnet the left hand won't open this is why I asked if the plungers are a certain length.
Mike

Post #2 is your first and most favorite/easiest check; the catches are notorious for getting 'sticky' with age so regardless a bit of latch lubrication wouldn't go amiss. Next, if you still have the old cable first check that the new one has the same length of 'free wire/nipple' showing (measure it?) then check the installed cable seating at the cable splitter box. The OEM box can be a bit 'frail' and the nipple for the O/S catch may have pulled through so that when you carried out your check it might have appeared to operate but doesn't actually move the full motion (the guillotine sliders in the catches which are clearly visible should move the same distance) and thus doesn't 'un-latch' the pin.
The pins are adjustable (you'll need an 18mm A/F thin open-end spanner and a flat bladed screwdriver for that) but if it all worked fine before you replaced the cables and you didn't adjust either pin, checking out the above should resolve things.
There's a how-to on here showing a simple cable tie mod. that prevents the cable nipples from pulling through the splitter box. You can also buy an upgraded 3-D printed aftermarket splitter box for a few quid


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