sounds expensive part 2, rover 75 cdt 02
 

Right just wanted to let people know all the things we,ve tried so far on the car to try to resolve the situation on our rover 75 cdt 2002.with no joy

1) Injectors have been cleaned profesionally, one was down but working now
2) in-tank fuel pump changed, but 2nd hand one was replacement
3)crank sensor changed
4) cam sensor changed
5)we.ve swapped battery over with Russ one, no joy
6) swapped fuel filter
7)disconnected all sensors we could reach, sprayed them with contact cleaner,then put them back together
8) took ecu out no obvious problems there, no corrosion or anything,
9) the emergency cut off fuel switch under the glove box was fine

It cant be the key or immobiliser as the starter motor works,
The car ran for about 5 secs at each turn of the key , but then just stops

So any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks, Tim

As you've pulled the fuel side to bits with no joy, try the air side of things. look for collapsed pipes, beathers or blocakages.

So is it now starting but just not running then ?

we get between 2-5 seconds each time we start her up, then its like someone has just hit the fuel cut off switch, no idiot lights coming on, its very frustrating

Didn't notice you'd started another thread just posted on other one;)

So have removed it and re posted here for continuity.

Russ

Jim suggested having another thread with everything we,ve done so far on it, it might help,
thanks a lot for today, hope you didnt get into too much bother

on older mems equiped rovers that run for a few seconds usualy indicates an immobiliser problem this is most prevailant on turbo conversions in which the immobiliser has not been removed or de-activated within the donor ecu.. as im new to 75's i have no idea wether you can re-code the key to the alarm circuit but you can re sync older rovers where the immob and key have become un sync'd

According to the official information I have the EWS ECU will cut off the starter relay and the fuel relay if it doesn't recognise the key or the signal to it becomes corrupted. Both of these systems appear to be working as normal.

The engine will run for a maximum of 5 seconds if the following sequence is followed:
Key turned to position 2 for a few seconds to prime fuel system, Fuel pumps are "working"
Try to start car engine fires but shuts down after a few seconds (I suspect when the fuel pressure drops) continued cranking results in engine sometimes catching for an instant but usually engine just continues to crank.
If the sequence is repeated the same result occurs.

My conclusion is that the engine when it fires is using the fuel to the point where the pressure drops on the low pressure side of the system which then causes the low pressure sensor to cut the ECU as described in my previous post. (See other thread)
There is fuel getting to the H.P. pump but don't know if it's at sufficient pressure to keep the engine running. The pressure should be 3.6 bar and the low pressure switch cuts in at 0.7 bar.
I don't unfortunately have a suitable guage.

The diesel specialist said he didn't find any faults but don't know if he tested the fuel pressure on the low pressure side. :shrug:

Have discounted the cam and crank sensors, high pressure fuel rail sensor and low pressure fuel sensor in the filter head. All these have been replaced by known working units from my own car.
Have checked every connector for cleanliness and security and checked wiring as much as possible including the connections to the ECU.
Injectors have been cleaned and "serviced" by diesel specialist.

Failing anything else I am tempted to try a new in tank pump and then if it doesn't work I can always keep it as a spare for my own which has now hit 80,000 miles. At least we can then rule out any faults on the low pressure side of the system.;)

Russ

Greeners just got me thinking...

When I put the red tourer back together after swapping engines it started on the first turn and seemed to tick over fine. When I tried to move it off it went for about 10 feet and then started to splutter and die as if it had lost fuel.

After that it started again but only ran for a few seconds before cutting out. It did this for a while as I searched through the engine to see if I had missed a hose. Eventually I unplugged the maf and it ran fine. I think the donor engine had been run with a synergy and pburg maf and the owner had put the old maf back on after the crash (it had air intake mod so likely owner was in the know about such things)

The moral of this story is a really knackered maf, or something else in the breathing system, can cause this sort of symptom.

going to change the maf, see what doesnt happen, back in 5 mins

Just crossed posts Russ,

I can't see a new pump making any difference. In the end if your's is known to be working but didn't solve the problem I can't see the benefit of trying a brand new one. Does your pump and the original pump fire up when they are supposed to?

EDIT - Tim, just unplug the maf and try it.