Crankshaft pulley removal-made easy!!
 

OK, i've just done this, so those in the process of wanting to know the easy way, here goes;
DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!
Remove the starter motor, a bit fiddly because of pipework in the way, but it can be done. 2 x 15mm (I think?) bolts hold it in place, accesed from RHS of engine bay. You don't need to remove the inlet manifold, pipes, etc, etc just the engine soundproof cover and the air intake pipe to slam panel.
Disconnect the electrical connections to the starter motor (1 x 13mm and a pull off plug) Take starter motor off and store safely.
Buy yourself the following: 1 length of 1 1/2" (or 30-35mm) steel pipe, thick walled and about 400mm long, 1 x 22mm 1/2" drive socket (3/4" drive better if you have the spanners/ratchets) and a 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket which will fit snugly inside the pipe.
Weld the 22mm socket at one end of the pipe with the socket face outwards (like using an extension bar) and weld the other socket INSIDE the other end of the pipe so the square 1/2" or 3/4" drive is outside. you now have the mother of all 22mm extension sockets!!
Turn the crankshaft pulley so you can see one of the 15mm bolts on the back of the flywheel (through the starter motor casing) and fit a ring spanner onto it, turning the crankshaft so it jams against the engine casing.
Use your new 400mm extension socket to remove the crank pulley bolt. A 4ft length of bar over the ratchet is advisable to aid removal of the bolt.
The reason why most people struggle to remove the bolt is because they use long extension bars to reach the pulley bolt from under the wheel arch. The extension bars have too much spring in them, so most of the effort (torque) used to try and remove the bolt is used up twisting the extension bar (think of the torsion bars used in Citroen 2CV's, Beetles and some Porsches for the springing effect of the suspension)
The long extension socket you have made removes all the springiness out of the process, so all effort used to turn the pulley bolt is directly transferred TO the bolt and not wasted!!
I will be keeping my bar for future use, but if anyone wishes to borrow it, feel free to contact me.

Really usefull. Many thanks. A true mechanic:bowdown::D

Nice one, where are you based, just incase somebody local needs to borrow it ? :)

A useful tip.

My quick find marker on this thread is #CPR# (Crankshaft Pulley Removal)

TC

Based in Worcester Park in Surrey.
Could post the tool for others to use if postage is paid both ways? But may be cheaper to buy materials and make yourself if you have a welder?
Thanks for comments, I've been spending sleepless nights thinking of a way round this problem, especially after reading some of the horror stories other members have suffered doing the same job!!
The bolt really did come off SOOOO easily, its not true. Hoping to use the tool to refit when new pulley and belts arrive.

I would hate to see the difficult way!: :D
However, all of this can be avoided by using good quality tools in the first place.
You get what you pay for.

Kaiser,
Irrespective of which brand of tools used, the massive amounts of torque required to undo/do up the crank pulley bolt will always induce twist into extension bars.
I used Snap On extension bars with a Snap on breaker bar and these still twisted!! I guess the only solution would be a 1" drive extension bar, with 1" drive impact socket and a 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar? But not many people own such a beast of a socket set, so my solution gets over this using 1/2" drive sockets and probably costing less than a 1" drive 22mm socket (under £20 to buy materials)

sockets
 

For the times that the 1" socket set to be used it's a no brainer for cost's,in it.

Hi.
The way I have always removed crank pulley bolts is to use a good socket and bar then jam the end on a suitable part of the chassis and jag the starter a couple of times, check its loosened and if necessary do it again. Its never failed once and that includes all sorts of vehicles even those using stretch bolts like the VW T4 1.9TD van that is so so tight.

I do like the OP's way of thinking and yes it is great if for whatever reason you cannot use the starter. I like the reference to torsion bars, they don't bend though they twist, they are just an un-coiled coil spring!

I'm liking both these ideas. Im sure my pulley is knackered because of the shushing noise and the vibs. But it looks fine.:shrug: