Drop links: everyone's favourite!
 

I've bought a pair of MG Rover anti-roll bar drop links direct from X-Part.

• The flats on the body (used to prevent rotation when tightening the nut) are narrower than my originals. I cannot push a spanner onto them without certain damage to the rubber boot. :eek:
• The threaded shaft is longer than the original. It almost touches the spring so it's impossible to use a ring spanner on the nut. :o
• The nuts are larger than the original, 17mm as opposed to 15mm. There's little enough room as it is without having to use a larger open ended spanner. :mad:

Can anyone recommend to me a brand of drop link which does not have these unhelpful features? My current original factory items have lasted over 100,000 miles and 22 years so I am seeking a similar lifespan. ;)

Many thanks.

Simon



Edit: Thread resolution following post no. 108

The answer to my question is no.

Expect a struggle removing the old links due to corrosion, poor access and 50% visibility.

Fitting all the new drop links as supplied requires ground down spanners and/or shortened threads at the strut mounting (as done by Arctic). Replace the standard enlarged 17mm AF Nylok nut with the original smaller 15mm AF flanged locknut (part no. FX110057) for improved spanner access. A 15mm bicycle cone spanner is adequate on the flats to prevent rotation and damage to the rubber boot. A bi-hexagon flare ring spanner is the best bet for manoeuvrability but its OD will need to be no larger than 25mm to fit the shrouded location and these spanners are usually only available in sets. For the offside it will probably still have to be ground down in thickness.
I looked at crow's foot attachments for a torque wrench but they're all too big.

Good luck. The job's a lot easier if you have the strut on the bench but you really don't want to do that.

Perhaps not answering your question.

Grind the spanner down, cut the thread, this is a common issue, replace the nut with the original?

I dont link grinding spanners but I will if I have another two.

DMGRS have originals, have a word with them about the spanner size but they dont have an issue if you cut the thread

macafee2

MEYLE HD, no issues fitting them, are good quality with a 4 year guarantee.

I can't recommend a make of droplinks but can recommend using a thin spanner to prevent the rotation. I've done this and the boots did not get damaged.

Like you I also struggled with the top nut. I ended up using a Crows foot, a universal joint and a small extension bar - I'm not recommending this as it was awful :D

The tool for the job is apparently a split ring spanner/flare nut spanner!

Neither do I Ian.
Thanks Lee. A good website but the spanner attachment looks thin, just like the MGR parts. I have messaged them.
I will research those ideas, thanks Andrew.

Ideally, I would like to buy parts made to the proper OE dimensions so that I can use standard tools. :o

Simon

I used my ratchet spanners when fitting my Meyle's but I've used a cycle spanner on other brands with good results.

A pair of large Mole grips will hold the shaft whilst you tighten (or also work for loosening) if the original or replacement is too narrow.;)

Agree lifespan of replacements not good. But following thread from I think this site I cut down the thread on the top joint so that a ring spanner can be used to fully tighten. This also makes it a whole lot easier to remove when the time comes.

I've always had DMGRS drop links, and sold or written off the car before they wore out. I think I managed to hold them with a spanner but can't remember. Anyway, as above, hold the rod with mole grips until the nut bites down.

Anyone would think it was a hugely difficult task to copy the original part. :mad: It's quite a challenge to make something worse, surely.

The Unipart drop links I fitted at the weekend were no better. Impossible to get a standard spanner in without it pushing the rubber boot off. Excellent engineering. :duh: