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-   -   KV6 2.5 non-starting (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=311350)

vitesse 1st March 2021 12:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too (Post 2868288)
Not necessarily Steve. Actuator 2 refers to the "power" VIS whose valve linkage can break. I'd first of all detach the actuator and test its operation using TOAF. Also check manually for play in the linkage.

Cooling fan 2 can refer to the medium speed on a 3 speed system. If your friend's car has a 2 speed system, it won't have a medium speed and so T4, and possibly TOAF too, thinks there's a fault. You can tell if it's a 2 speed system by the presence of a resistor visible through the radiator grille.

Simon

But if he detaches the actuator and tests it then isn't there's a danger that it will over run if it's a non-Stocktake one? I believe one of Stocktake's modifications is a stop to prevent overrun. Perhaps Dave can advise. Otherwise safest to check for four sweeps while still in place, if it's dead then he can then detach it and check for linkage play.

Mike

stocktake 1st March 2021 12:44

Mike is quite correct, testing a power Vis off the car and especially with 12v can (and usually does) cause it to over run and lock up with the internal cam depressing both the microswitches at the same time, this renders the Vis motor totally inoperative.
Mine do indeed incorporate among other improvements a limiter pin and are bench tested from 9v through to 16v to ensure they cannot over run ;).

SD1too 1st March 2021 17:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitesse (Post 2868309)
But if he detaches the actuator and tests it then isn't there's a danger that it will over run ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake (Post 2868313)
Mike is quite correct, testing a power Vis off the car and especially with 12v can (and usually does) cause it to over run ...

:iagree:
Thanks Mike and Dave for pointing this out. Yes, I agree that testing with TOAF (using 12v) is best done with the linkage still attached to the actuator. I was forgetting that when I tested mine off the car I used a 9 volt PP3 and there was no overrun.

Simon

stevenkeyte 3rd March 2021 14:12

OK, I've now replaced the cam sensor, cleared the errors and the car still doesn't start, TOAF is still showing a camshaft sensor fault and the only other error showing now is the cooling fan, anyone any pointers on where to look next. The camshaft sensor with link lead came from DMRGS

Steve

richw 3rd March 2021 22:20

If you still get a camshaft position sensor error after putting in a new one, I would suspect the cabling. Or whatever is on the other end of the cable!

Robson Rover Repair 4th March 2021 04:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevenkeyte (Post 2868776)
OK, I've now replaced the cam sensor, cleared the errors and the car still doesn't start, TOAF is still showing a camshaft sensor fault and the only other error showing now is the cooling fan, anyone any pointers on where to look next. The camshaft sensor with link lead came from DMRGS

Steve

Does the car keep cranking? There's a 10amp fuse under bonnet fails and a kv6 will never start, BUT and it's caught me out before it usually causes the fuse to fail so barely that at a glance it's actually fine.

Has happened to me at least once in every kv6 now I've owned.

stevenkeyte 4th March 2021 06:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin_NI (Post 2868870)
Does the car keep cranking? There's a 10amp fuse under bonnet fails and a kv6 will never start, BUT and it's caught me out before it usually causes the fuse to fail so barely that at a glance it's actually fine.

Has happened to me at least once in every kv6 now I've owned.

Hi Colin, yes the car cranks over with no problems - is the fuse number three in the fuse box as I read a thread on another forum relating to non-starting KV6 that was throwing out a camshaft sensor error and it was actually the fuse causing the issue, along with intermittent O2 sensor faults, which is what this engine has been doing, initially it was a host of faults (see screen shot earlier in this post) but after changing the camshaft sensor and clearing the faults, the only faults to re-occur are the camshaft sensor and the cooling fan.
Hopefully I'll get the chance to check the fuse box later and I'll report back here with the results,

Steve

stevenkeyte 5th March 2021 22:39

Problem resolved - turned out fuse three in the engine bay fuse box had failed, swapped the fuse and car started no problems!

Steve

SD1too 6th March 2021 08:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevenkeyte (Post 2868883)
... is the fuse number three in the fuse box as I read a thread on another forum relating to non-starting KV6 that was throwing out a camshaft sensor error and it was actually the fuse causing the issue, along with intermittent O2 sensor faults, which is what this engine has been doing ...

Thanks for posting the solution Steve. Yes, fuse 3 (engine fusebox) feeds the O2 sensor and camshaft position sensor so you were on the case!

Simon

stocktake 6th March 2021 09:54

Just a thought on this one. Why did the fuse fail? As Arctic said earlier the O2 sensor wires can rub and short on the exhaust insulation. this could cause it to happen again, worth checking the wiring ;).
More importantly thanks for coming back to let everyone know the problem and outcome :bowdown:


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