75 connoissuer cdti fuse 28 fuel pump problems
 

Hi, my rover started to act up yesterday, it stopped in the road with the warning lights coming on as if the inertia switch had gone. I've already replaced the inertia switch, and was given the advice here to also check fuse 28 when I did, which was also blown. The car has been fine since until yesterday, when fuse 28 blew again. I checked the inertia switch, which hadn't tripped, so as I had a few spares in the car, i replaced fuse 28 but blew 2 more getting home. I've searched the forum and it seems the in tank fuel pump is probabaly the culprit. My question is this, on searching ebay for parts, there is a vast difference in prices, from £30 to £240, and ebays parts finder says that a fuel pump from a VW will fit, although it looks different https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW...QAAOSw5sBbh~aE. could anyone advise me on how to proceed?
Thanks in advance!

Usually it is the commutator that wears down on the ITP which then goes open circuit so wouldn't blow the fuse. Might be worth doing a bit more investigation before buying parts you don't need.

Check wiring as not chaffed under the engine fuse box, or the wiring passing from the engine fuse box in the wheel arch area, front bumper off will give you better view of wiring in that area.

Thanks, it will be monday or tuesday before I can get to that, but I'll whip the bumper off and check the wiring then, thanks for the advice. If it is the fuel pump that's faulty (something going on in there anyway, as the fuel gauge is erratic and the and the car runs out of fuel at the quarter tank mark) do I need to get the expensive one or will the part I posted above work in place?
Thanks.

Can't confirm or deny that the pump you linked to will fit.
However it is possible to just fit a pump in to the housing you already have.
Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221364171689 other options available, this was just the first known brand in my search.

This takes perhaps an extra 30 mins or so, but is usually cheaper.


Something to consider is having no more than half a tank of fuel when you do this job :)


Regards
Chris

I would be tempted to inspect the wiring first, both underbonnet pump and in tank pump are wired in parallel, and it would be a first to find a pump causing the fuse to blow.

It's so rare, I've not come across a pump ever to cause an overcurrent trip of a fuse, it has always been the result of chaffed wiring, if you suspect the in tank pump, then simply disconnect the supply to the pump temporarily, the +ve supply being the white wire with purple trace.

Brian :D

Thanks for everyone's input, the fuel pump I posted won't fit according to the seller, but it may be that the one that Chris has posted will do the job, and much cheaper than the £240 for a full new pump and assembly etc, thanks Chris!. I have been searching thru the forum, and it does seem that a faulty in tank fuel pump can cause this issue with fuse 28 on my particular model, and so as the car runs out of fuel at the quarter tank mark (a sign that I may have been running solely on the UBP for a while anyway) I will check the wiring and then try disconnecting the ITP and see if that does the trick. It'll probably be tuesday before I have the time to do that, but I'll report back when I have.

Post I found regarding faulty ITP and fuse 28 blowing.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=132015

Hi Jim,
The in tank pump normally fails due to open circuit (or at least my experience)
Brian's comment ref check wiring is probably a good start, as a broken wire would also so the pump working, but would also blow the fuse if it shorted to chassis.
Any problems, feel free to give me a shout.
Regards
Chris

It turned out to be the under bonnet pump, which had a short.