Can anyone help? ‘04 facelift MG ZT T 2.5l KV6 Non Start.
 

Can anyone help? ‘04 facelift MG ZT T 2.5l KV6. Non start.

A couple of weeks ago, I started the car on a cold morning. While ticking over I cleared the frost from the windscreen etc then went to drive off. Got about 20m and it stopped. It would start again for a couple of seconds then cut out and the hazards turn on. Also the windows have stopped working. We managed to push it back onto the drive. Working with my dad we’ve checked/changed a number of things:

The battery is strong, though when left for some days it did drain heavily. It seemed to be draining at around 0.5 amps form fully charged.
We unhooked the fuel feed to the injector rails and found there was no flow. Therefore we’ve replaced the fuel filter. (Old filter was fairly dirty, but the filter housing had not split and it has the clip on it).
We’ve checked the fuel pump works by powering the middle two pins on the electrical connector (Thanks Chris Marshall for the tip). This now pumps fuel up to the engine bay, but currently the pump isn’t being activated by the ignition.
We’ve checked all fuses for continuity and they seem fine.
We’ve pressed the fuel inertia switch in case this has triggered for some reason, no difference.
I’ve had a local garage come over and put a scanner on it, but as it wasn’t T4 it wasn’t conclusive.
When the motor is cranked the tachometer moves, so we think that the cam sensor is good.

It’s currently cranking but with the fuel pump not turning on. The windows do not operate with the ignition on, the hazards come on and there is an engine management light on.

I feel like it may be an immobiliser issue but I’ve tried both keys and was hoping to reset it with TOAF but couldn’t figure it out. The battery has also been disconnected and re charged.

It’s now been sat idle for 2 weeks. Before I tow it for full diagnostics (I did try TOAF but didn’t seem to tell me much), is there anything that I’ve missed or has anyone had similar issues? Any help would be really appreciated.

I'll say now that I don't really do electrics, but have you checked the ECU isn't drowning in a blocked plenum?

Swap the fuel pump relay for the horn one then try it, there are 4 relays by the side of the fusebox in the passenger footwell.

Think that the tacho needle moving is evidence that the crank sensor is working rather than the cam sensor.

Don't muck about with Toaf, you can do more harm than good especially with things like the EWS, reading is fine - writing is not. First rule is back-up any module you intend to change settings in. But Toaf can be your friend here as there is a function within the engine setting where you can energise the fuel pump relay.

And charge the battery for at least 24 hrs.

Regards

ps If the car were immobilised I think you'd see a engine symbol with a cross overlaid, check your handbook

Thanks Pete. Will have a look in the morning.

Thanks Ched. Just gave it a go an no change unfortunately.

Thanks Vitesse. Yes you're right, I'm not seeing the symbol with the cross overlaid so not the immobiliser. I'll get the battery on charge then have a look at that TOAF setting tomorrow after backing up.

You have water on the kbus line somewhere, this will trigger the hazards and window issue.

Hi Daniel,

When the ignition is turned on the ECM runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds. With the rear seat cushion raised can you hear this, or measure it using a voltmeter?
During cranking the ECM requires a signal from the crankshaft sensor to run the fuel pump.

In both cases the fuel pump relay is activated but you say you've checked that.

When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) do the low fuel, high coolant temperature and brake warning lights illuminate for 4 seconds?

Simon

It cut out with hazards coming on you say eh?

The most likely culprit is the inertia switch located behind the passenger side A post kick panel.

https://rimmerbros.com/ItemImages/Large/16460-Large.jpg

Take off the panel, locate the switch then give it a smack with the palm of your hand.

Following this, push the rubber part on the top firmly in the centre which will fully reset the spring loaded ball switch.

Hopefully this is all that is at fault, in all likelihood it will be ;)

Let us know how you get on

Brian :D