rear wheel bearing
 

I just did my rear wheel bearing to day and was totally surprised that it was torgue up beyond belief, a 1/2 to 1 hour job took me nearly 3 hours.
I guess who ever did it must have used a windy gun because it took me forever just to break the tightened nut! even the caliper nuts was overtight.
I eventually had to send for a mechanic friend of mine to come and sort it out, he found that the inner race part of the bearing was rock hard and solid on the spline and it was left behind when he did manage to get the bearing it off.
Anyway in the end everything went well and I now have a new rear bearing torqued correctly.:}:D

Its not unusual to leave the rear half of the inner bearing shell on the stub axel, they are a split design and it's why torqueing correctly is so essential.
I sometimes remove mine and clean / re-grease the bearing before refitting and you should torque to 210 Nm or 21kgs of rotational force 1 meter from the centre of the nut, that can seem bloomin hard to shift if you only have a short socket set...:eek:.

always test for smooth and quiet rotation by hand before refitting the disc... and do not forget to stave the nut flange properly to ensure it does not unwind...!!

if you use the same nut then ensure the staved area on the old nut is not reused, or better still, get new nuts (they usually come in a bearing kit...).

Clean the backplate and shaft well before fitting to ensure the ABS gets a clean signal too..!!

Luckily this has only happened to me once - chisel will get it free.You wouldn't try to remove a wheel nut just using a ratchet handle, why would you try that on a bearing! The front hub nut on my Megane is 275nm - that's fine with the correct tool but impossible otherwise.

The hardest part is the stakenut - it's possible to remove it without staking if you can put the force in (with a 36" breaker bar it's easy) but it's probably not a good idea.I think Brian recommends the opposite - the staked portion of the nut provides a datum and should line up exactly if torqued correctly.

Although the bearings SHOULD come with new nuts - they often don't, or come with the wrong size (which fits the stub axle, but not in the recess). And buying a new nut from Rimmers et al is just extortionate - and I couldn't find them anywhere else.

If you are changing both rear bearings, don't have access to new nuts but do have a torque wrench, swap the nuts over and you usually then get a fresh part of the nut rim to stake down.

A king dick ring spanner on the nut and your weight on the other end should shift the nut.

Do the calliper bolts have lock tight or similar on them? Location also make them somewhat difficult to undo

macafee2

Replace with new ones from rimmers, they have a nordlock type washer wich is easier to reuse than threadlock...

caliper nuts
 

The threads on the caliper nuts had copper grease on them or what was left of it, so I can only assume whoever tightened them over did it because they were really hard to free.
kind regards
:shrug: