CDT not starting,after head gasket change,,,,
 

Hi,
If anyone could give some advice or point me in the right direction,I would appreciate it---

Had water loss recently -
Water in oil,Oil Level rising,Mayo under oil cap,
but no oil in water.
Changed oil cooler--was full of scale and crud,but couldn't bench test .
Still used water so got head gasket)correct two hole thickness+head set.
Fitted head gasket and set timing as per 'Rave'.

Now won't start,,,checked all connections and pipes,,,strange thing though,it looks like it's trying to force diesel back through the injectors--so---I wondered if I'd got the timing 360degrees out?
So I stripped the cam cover off again and set it up all over again.
Still won't start.
I've had diesel 75's for 16 years and haven't come across this before.
So I'm stuck,,all I can do now is check the various sensors to see if I've disturbed something.

On top of all this,we were coming back for a 3month trip to the UK and France,starting tomorrow!!!! in the 75...
Regards Ken.

Ken when you say diesel is being forced back though the injectors, is that diesel flowing through the leakback pipes or something else?

The engine has a cam sensor, and as this reads direct from the inlet cam you can't time it 360 degrees out.

Did you make up your own version of, or have tool 12-173 as mentioned in Rave? If not then the timing might be out.

Do you have access to a diesel compression tester? If so worth checking the compression on all the cylinders.

The diesels are usually bullet proof re head gaskets.
Oil cooler is usually the cullprit as oil in water but no water in the oil due to oil pressure higher than coolant pressure on startup.
Cleaning the system out is a pain and there is even traces of oil in the coolant system months after cleaning most of it out.

CDT not starting,after head gasket change,,,,
 

Totally agree, more than likely to be one of the plastic joints, the y splitter for the top hose, mine was the thermostat housing and y splitter.. could even be a pin hole in a hose..

I had a leak on a Pajero, thought hgf or cracked head as was using litres of water.. turned out to be pin holes in top hose leaking only when under pressure.


http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-t...-bmw-320d-e46/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for your responses,,sorry I couldn't get back straight away..been hectic,,,
I had a tool made to check the cam positions+lock the flywheel.
My initial mistake was to set the timing up with the flywheel tool touching a bolt and not located in the hole.But I didn't hear anything knocking or touching when I spun it over.
Now triple checked and timing seems correct.(as per Rave)

The diesel seems to be forced through the injectors,as if the clamps aren't tight enough,but when I nipped them up a bit,I snapped a stud,so I've got that to fix now.

I could then try a compression test.

I only got water in the oil,no external leaks,oil level was rising,but car was running really well,before I replaced the head gasket.(now won't start)

I know these are a very reliable engine,but after I bought it 3 years ago,I had a look through the history,and as far back as when it was new it had leak issues,which were never fully sorted until I got the car.It even had the wrong antifreeze in,the blue stuff.
So inevitably it has corroded prematurely .At the time I replaced a rubber pipe which was split on the inside and then tracked up the reinforcing thread and then leaked(which looked like a joint/jubilee clip fault....I had to change the thermostat(original)water pump,heater matrix clean and the 'y' piece .
It has run faultlessly since.
Hopefully water leak sorted,but I need to get it started,I've put my wife on a plane and given myself two weeks to fix it.
Unfortunately there aren't many of these engines on the island,so most mechanics are more used to the japanese cars.
Right ,,,,back down to the garage...

Some members have used orange juice in the cooking system as a flushing agent. No water, just orange juice. It removes all the sludge and mayo from the system, not sure how long it’s run like that for,days or weeks.

You have got the injector clamps the right way round, used new copper sealing washers and removed all the old washers?

Failing that check the head is clean around the sealing area - any dirt or rust could compromise the seal.

Ok,,found out that I'd put the injector clamps on the wrong way around,,saw this in another thread,,(they do look upside down in their 'correct' position though) thanks Mike as well as I've just seen your reply,,,result,, engine runs again,,just got to 'easyout' a stud thread.
Thanks again everyone.
And it's great that people relay their mistakes,otherwise I wouldn't have guessed...
Regards Ken.

Hi Rich,
No oil in water system,it was the other way around.
I could imagine it would be a pain of a job though..
Thanks, Ken

Glad to read it's sorted i was going to say if fuel is being forced back past the injector then it's not seated or sealing properly.