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-   -   Help with refitting front suspension arm (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=315294)

Cantray 15th September 2021 19:34

Help with refitting front suspension arm
 
Hi all

have foolishly attempted to replace front suspension arm for MOT on my CDT. The arm came off easily enough but real problem getting the bush re attached to subframe. Have the rear bolt all lined up with f clamp and dentist mirror but the bolt just will not start to thread. Have tried old bolts and new bolts. The thread is not stripped - have not even managed the hint of a thread catching let alone tried a spanner. Taken at least 4 hours on this bit. Thinking will need to take hub off to allow more movement in the arm to adjust the bush holder. Any suggestions? Thanks! Thought the water pump was bad. Won't be trying this again. Jim

macafee2 15th September 2021 19:55

personally, I'd remove the sub frame to do this job.

macafee2

Cantray 15th September 2021 20:02

That's a thought. Bit drastic to replace a suspension arm, but would allow some more extensive maintenance for sure.

YMGF 16th September 2021 07:53

I'd agree with Macafee2 on removal. I did mine that way, lowering the subframe on a jack and wheeling out. Solves access problems and allows de-rusting activities!

SD1too 16th September 2021 08:11

Hi Jim,

I did this job in the spring so perhaps I can help and you'll be pleased to know that the subframe does not need to be "removed" or lowered.

The problem is, as you've found out, access to the rear bush bolts. The official method, which I found works perfectly, is to remove the anti-roll bar saddle clamp bolts. The clamp can then be lifted off and the bar moved forwards giving you full access to that pesky front bolt. You will then be able to start the bolts off by hand in five seconds and even fit a hexagon socket and torque wrench so that these important suspension bolts can be tightened properly to the specified value.

The anti-roll bar saddle clamp bolts are difficult to see. You'll need some slim socketry and some flexible attachments. They're not particularly tight (25Nm I think) but they might be rusty.
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cantray (Post 2899713)
Thinking will need to take hub off to allow more movement in the arm to adjust the bush holder.

Start the rear bush bolts with the outer balljoint disconnected. There's no need to take off the hub. :}

Simon

trikey 16th September 2021 08:19

No subframe or anti roll bar removal required.

Jack up the front wheel, this will line op the flange on the new bush, the bolts will go in easily then.

Cantray 16th September 2021 08:53

Thanks to both SD1 and Trikey.

Problem is not with access to bolts, it's with getting the bolts to thread on the the subframe. 5 seconds - i wish! Tried jacking up the hub with the outer ball joint in place but the bush flange was so far from alignment that it broke the G clamp I used to straighten it up! So took outer balljoint off again and can now align the bush nicely but the bolts just won't thread. Bush is correctly oriented on the arm. Must be doing something wrong I think.

SD1too 16th September 2021 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cantray (Post 2899775)
So took outer balljoint off again and can now align the bush nicely but the bolts just won't thread. Bush is correctly orientated on the arm. Must be doing something wrong I think.

I didn't use a G clamp, in fact it's advantageous to leave a little space between the subframe and the arm to assist the location of the bolts. The front bolt will be very difficult though with the anti-roll bar right on top of it! ;)

Simon

Cantray 16th September 2021 09:05

will try that Simon - thanks

Cantray 16th September 2021 12:23

Have made progress by removing arm to check that bolts actually fit in subframe - they do with ease. Will sleep on it but don't see an easy way out of this for either me or car.


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